Adam Ondra and Magdalena Röck win the 2014 Lead World Cup stop in Imst, Austria
Ondra, Röck Win 2014 Lead World In Imst
Hard Sends For Payne & Puccio In RMNP
The summer of 2014 continues to be dominated by headlines about women climbers pushing the limits of what has been done before, and last week that trend continued with hard sends by Angie Payne and Alex Puccio in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park.
→ Heather Weidner Repeats Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b)∞
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:
The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…
→ Audrey Sniezek Repeats Lost World (5.14b)∞
Audrew Sniezek, writing on her blog about how she juggles a full-time job and sending 5.14b with her recent repeat of Lost World at Little Si, WA:
The early morning routine, if you don’t already know this about me, is sport climbing ‘alpine style’ starting at the crack of dawn. We call ourselves the Breakfast Club or the Morning Crew and though the group has dwindled down over the years to only a few remaining, it was exciting to see a resurgence in numbers. The morning group has been gathering and climbing at this wall and Exit 38 since as early as 2005. We come from all around the city, meet and carpool to the cliff sometimes in the dark so we can get the most time on the wall before having to rush back to the city for work.
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While there has been an ebb and flow of the morning group, there has generally been a core set, primarily Microsoftees, that have endured and includes myself. These early morning sessions allow us to get in some good climbs with cooler temps and no crowds.
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We get in a full day at work and for those with families, get to enjoy dinner at home with their spouse and kids. In the summer, the sun hits the wall as early as 8:30 and if it’s a hot day, can become impossible to climb on the wall by 9:30, which is perfect for us. We can easily be off the wall and in the office by 10:30/11am.
I’ll always be that much more impressed with someone’s hard climbing if they are doing it while juggling “real world” responsibilities at the same time.
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→ Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15∞
Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):
Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.
He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day.
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Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.
Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?
Adam Ondra Climbs Biographie, World Barely Notices
A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.
→ First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa∞
DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners:
On my fourth trip [to South Africa], I was told vaguely about some boulders in the middle Cederberg and wanted to go see what I could find. I drove out there with the “Chasing Winter” crew (Carlo Traversi, Ashima Shiraishi) and we spent a few days hiking and exploring the zone.
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I didn’t really have the eye then to see the potential that I did this past trip. I am so glad I gave the area another chance because in 2012 when I went, I wasn’t able to see the massive potential of the area.
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The potential he found included the problem pictured below called In the Depths of Solitude which could be as hard as V15. In addition, Robinson opened a slew of other double digit problem including three V13s and a good number of more moderate problems as well.
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