Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15

Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day. Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

Posted In: Asides, Bouldering, News
Climbers:
Areas:

Subscribe

Subscribe to the RSS feed to receive updates, and follow us on Twitter & Facebook

7 Responses to Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15

  1. bob July 28, 2014 at 11:27 am #

    Where is the pullup video? So I can believe this.

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • Aaron Schneider July 28, 2014 at 1:02 pm #

      Not 50 consecutive I would assume.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
  2. Tamás Zupán July 28, 2014 at 3:49 pm #

    Of course not consecutive 🙂 10 left hand and 10 right hand and 2-3 min break. If i can do 50 one arm pull ups consecutive, i will send you a video 🙂

    GD Star Rating
    loading...
    • jplesser July 28, 2014 at 9:40 pm #

      Pull-ups aside, congratulations on an amazing send.

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
    • puxa July 29, 2014 at 5:34 pm #

      Congratulations for you send but for Christ’s sake, focus more on finger’s strength and don’t waste more effort doing so many useless one arm pull ups 😛

      GD Star Rating
      loading...
      • T July 30, 2014 at 8:32 am #

        Until you’ve sent In Search Of Time Lost yourself, I don’t think you can call his one arm pull-ups useless…

        GD Star Rating
        loading...
      • RyanJ July 30, 2014 at 9:20 am #

        Seems to me that he was already doing extensive finger strength training by way of campusing, bouldering, and system boarding. True, there is no mention of use of a fingerboard but the focus on finger strength is already there.

        In his new book, Strength, performance coach and personal trainer Steve Bechtel explains that “sometimes the big limiter in any day of climbing will be finger strength, tendons, even skin. By continuing the ‘work’ away from the rock, we can continue to improve without beating up the hands.”

        It’s not so much not wasting time doing one arms, it’s more that you should do them when your hands can’t handle any more climbing.

        GD Star Rating
        loading...

Leave a Reply