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→ Jonathan Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d)∞

Posted July 16, 2013 at 9:53 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist, writing on his blog about his 4th ascent of BJ Tilden’s finger tendon nightmare Moonshine (5.14d) at the Wild Iris:

In the end it was this rad community that got me through it. My homie Colby came through with the necessary moonshine, replenishing the resident jar that lives beneath the route, BJ was there to bless me with his belay, and a crowd of good friends – old and new – were at the crag to cheer me on.
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I’m glad that this tiny little sport route toyed with my emotions a little – I got a condensed version of what BJ experienced over the years – and it made topping out the Erratic that much sweeter.
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→ The Disposable Man∞

Posted July 15, 2013 at 8:18 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Interesting piece on Outside Online about the plight of Sherpas working in the Everest region:

A Sherpa working above Base Camp on Everest is nearly ten times more likely to die than a commercial fisherman—the profession the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention rates as the most dangerous nonmilitary job in the U.S.—and more than three and a half times as likely to perish than an infantryman during the first four years of the Iraq war.  But as a workplace safety statistic, 1.
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2 percent mortality is outrageous. There’s no other service industry in the world that so frequently kills and maims its workers for the benefit of paying clients.
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→ Interview With Adam Ondra After His 5.14d Onsight∞

Posted July 11, 2013 at 9:54 am · Comments { 3 } ·

I don’t know how you warm up for your 5.14d onsights, but this is what Adam Ondra did:

Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn’t that worried because I then found out that it wasn’t even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.

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→ Chris Sharma In His Birthday Suit∞

Posted July 9, 2013 at 1:32 pm · Comments { 15 } ·

If you’ve always wondered what Chris Sharma might look like if he was hiking your project in the nude, your wait is over.
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 Sharma and girlfriend Daila Ojeda were featured in the 2013 ESPN The Magazine Body Issue which luckily comes with this gem of an interview that’s only missing questions about how fast he climbs or if he’s ever thought about climbing Everest1.

See also:  this picture.  Or this one.

  1.  I kid, the interview isn’t that bad considering its intended audience ↩
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→ 5.14d Onsight By Adam Ondra∞

Posted July 9, 2013 at 8:58 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Kairn.com reports in French that Adam Ondra has done his long-awaited 5.14d onsight with his first go send of La cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.  Long expected to be the first to onsight 5.14d, Ondra was just beaten out by Alex Megos who onsighted Estado critico (5.14d) in Siurana, Spain earlier this year.  Prior to this, Ondra had onsighted some 15 5.14cs1  in addition to 75 5.14a or b onsights so to say he has been building toward this goal would be an understatement.
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  1.  Including two in the Red River Gorge that were considered by some to be 5.14d although ultimately they likely never were ↩
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→ Alex Megos Repeats Wheel Of Life∞

Posted July 9, 2013 at 8:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In what should be surprising news to no one at this point, Alex Megos has made quick work of Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians:

Though he hasn’t been here for long Megos hasn’t wasted any time, racking up what is almost certainly (and by a long way) the fastest ascent of the Wheel of Life (35/36) in the world-famous Hollow Mountain Cave.

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Tito Traversa Killed In Fall

Posted July 5, 2013 at 10:04 am · Comments { 65 } ·

Just a day or two after climbing another 5.14a, 12-year-old Tito Traversa was seriously injured in a sport climbing accident at Orpierre, France.  This report in French by Grimper seems to indicate that a number of quick draws he was using were improperly slung1 causing them to fail resulting in a fall from some 60 feet off the deck.  He is now fighting for his life in a Grenoble hospital in a medically induced coma.

It goes without saying that we are hoping all the best for him and his family in this difficult time.

Update:  According to this article in an Italian newspaper Tito has passed away.  Sad, sad story.

  1. Possibly as demonstrated in this video ↩
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