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→ “Well, we didn’t”∞

Posted June 13, 2013 at 9:43 am · Comments { 26 } ·

Emily Harrington with a very honest look back on a trip she took to Morocco to climb with Hazel Findlay for the 2013 Reel Rock Film Tour:

I had never climbed a big wall like that before, with such difficult and engaging climbing, daring and dangerous runouts, and for such a long period of time. The entire experience was utterly exhausting.
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The film crew seemed stressed at first at our hesitation to go back and try again, as if the story wouldn’t be complete without another try, but what if we didn’t want to try again? Well, we didn’t.

∞ · Comments { 26 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
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→ New Blog Post And V14 Repeat For Dave Graham∞

Posted June 12, 2013 at 7:56 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dave Graham, writing for sponsor Five Ten:

Life has some pretty crazy twists and turns in the last couple months. This time around the story starts with my epic skiing accident that crunked out my left knee, then delves into the making of The Island Volume One, and then follows my last month of country hoping out here in Europe. Life is good! I hope you all enjoy!

I’m not sure what happened, but Graham somehow fails to mention that one time I said what’s up to him at SCS Nationals. Five Ten must have edited that out I guess.
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On a related note, Graham is in Switzerland where he did the 2nd ascent of The Full Circle, a V14 established by Nalle Hukkataival.  Graham comments on 8a:

Super syked to climb this rig. Crazy tension moves, resistant, and on not the best grips, shits not easy! Brushed it up with Moix and crew, then battled it out over next three rainy days, and somehow sent it!
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STOKED! First hard boulder post ski accident/ knee destruction. 2nd ascent, just hours after Nalle did the FA.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ DPM Issue 24∞

Posted June 11, 2013 at 8:48 am · Comments { 7 } ·

After the initial excitement of being free wore off, my interest in reading Deadpoint Magazine has waned a bit.
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 I wasn’t really enjoying the articles and the interface for the online magazine actually makes it pretty annoying to read through.
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However, I flipped through the latest issue and enjoyed it quite a bit.  It features articles about and interviews with Kai Lightner and Nalle Hukkataival, and it also includes several “lost” videos from a trip Daniel Woods took to Switzerland back in 2011.  The videos include footage of him climbing three V14-15 boulders with repeats of Ill Trill, Practice Of The Wild and Believe In Two.

Check it out here.

∞ · Comments { 7 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
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Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win At 2013 Vail Bouldering World Cup

Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win At 2013 Vail Bouldering World Cup

Posted June 10, 2013 at 8:01 am · Comments { 7 } · Photo: IFSC

The annual bouldering World Cup at the newly renamed GoPro Mountain Games in Vail, CO has come and gone. As usual, it was an exciting show filled with an above average presence from some of America’s top boulderers.

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2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Vail Live

Posted June 7, 2013 at 8:29 am · Comments { 4 } ·

The bouldering World Cup returns to Vail, CO this weekend at the GoPro Mountain Games. Catch all the action with the following live feeds

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Video Friday – 6/7/2013

Video Friday – 6/7/2013

Posted June 7, 2013 at 6:31 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ New Free Route On Liberty Cap∞

Posted June 6, 2013 at 9:52 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Since I’ve only been posting bad news out of Yosemite, it seems like now would be a good time to post about something good like this new free route on Liberty Cap established by Lucho River and Cedar Wright:

Lucho Rivera and Cedar Wright have completed the first all-free ascent of the southwest face of Liberty Cap above Yosemite Valley. The two men redpointed the 16-pitch route, tentatively called Mahtah (the Native American name for Liberty Cap), on May 31, with Wright leading the majority of the crux pitches and Rivera following free.

∞ · Comments { 2 } · Climbers { 2 } · Areas { 1 }