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Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian

Pure Imagination (5.14d) Repeated By Sasha DiGiulian

Posted October 17, 2011 at 8:25 am · Comments { 29 } · Photo: Sasha DiGiulian on Southern Smoke (5.14c) earlier this year

Sasha DiGiulian continues to amaze, this time repeating a 5.14d in the Red River Gorge

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New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival

Posted October 14, 2011 at 2:08 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Fresh off a trip to Font, Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort:

It’s a great problem on bulletproof granite and climbs extremely well. Every move requires lots of body tension and shoulder strength. It climbs very differently than granite usually does and it is more like a sandstone problem style-wise. I decided to name it Circus Elephant Syndrome and for the grade I’m proposing hard 8B+.

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Video Friday – 10/14/2011

Video Friday – 10/14/2011

Posted October 14, 2011 at 9:00 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Two weekends in October down, three precious weekends to go. Do you know where your project is?

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Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle

Posted October 13, 2011 at 11:14 am · Comments { 11 } ·

After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder, Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went just a little better for him there:

On day two, Julian onsighted Living in Fear (5.13d), shaking out in the worst possible places, and making the super-sustained testpiece look like 5.10, according to witnesses. After onsighting Living, Julian returned to the Wicked Cave, and surprised himself by onsighting The Crew (5.14c), one of the hardest routes in the canyon. The performance surprised even Julian, who said that it was a true “a muerte” fight to the end. Some of the hardest moves on the route are right at the top, and are said to be especially hard if you’re short.

Rock & Ice has the rest of the details.

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Nat Geo Blog Catches Up With Chris Sharma

Nat Geo Blog Catches Up With Chris Sharma

Posted October 13, 2011 at 9:35 am · Comments { 3 } · Photo: Boone Speed

The Nat Geo Adventure blog checks in with Chris Sharma

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News & Notes – 10/12/2011

News & Notes – 10/12/2011

Posted October 12, 2011 at 9:00 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Royal Robbins on the Salathé Wall in 1961

News & Notes from Lynn Hill, Joe Kinder, Sasha DiGiulian, Reno climbing walls, 50 year anniversaries and more…

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The Not Worth It Boulders

Posted October 11, 2011 at 2:38 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

While the discovery and development of new boulders in Wyoming and elsewhere has gotten a lot of attention of late, it’s instructive to remember that many times the quest for new rock and new problems doesn’t always work out like we hope:

Honestly, while I would never like to return to the Not Worth It Boulders, it was totally worth going up there the first time to spend some time with friends.  It has helped me to truly appreciate all of the hard work and vision needed for the people who have developed the climbing areas that I get to visit.
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  I have spent many hours drooling over guide books wishing that I could have been the first person to climb some of the routes, but now I realize that I am pretty lucky to have all of the hard work done for me.
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