“Fuerza My People”

Posted February 16, 2012 at 2:52 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

In a post on Five Ten’s site Dave Graham reflects in his usual style on the last few months of 2011 which culminated with his FA of Memory is Parallax (V14):

In a day and age where each boulder problem is argued to be less and less significant (its not that hard, its not that cool, its not that tall, its not what I like, no one will go there, blah blah blah) I find it truly important to share when things do matter. When something I have done a boulder is significant.
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I took a lot from this experience as a person, even though I just climbed a rock, it was a massive milestone, and a true personal accomplishment, but it was because of how it fit into my life, where I was when I did it, and where I came from before I started trying it.
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Dave Graham

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Daniel Woods Wins North Face Cup, Climbs Hard Boulders In Japan

Posted February 16, 2012 at 8:01 am · Comments { 2 } · Photo: Daniel Woods atop the podium at The North Face Cup in Japan by Eddie Gianelloni

Shortly after winning the 2012 Dark Horse Championships Daniel Woods made the trek to Japan to compete in The North Face Cup and sample some of Dai Koyamada’s roof testpieces at Shiobara. Woods won The North Face Open, besting a strong field that included Sachi Amma, and repeated both Catharsis (V14) and Hydra (V13) in a single visit to Shiobara according to his 27Crags ticklist. Pictures from the comp can be seen here and here.

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Brushing Up On Some History

Posted February 15, 2012 at 7:14 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Certain climbing areas have iconic problems that everyone remembers their experience with and at the Buttermilks outside Bishop, CA, The Iron Man Traverse (V4) is one such problem.

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Bishop, Buttermilks

Training Tips From Justen Sjong

Posted February 14, 2012 at 9:10 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Justen Sjong shares several good training tips with Evening Sends

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Men Of Routesetting 2012

Posted February 13, 2012 at 7:14 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Looking for a last-minute gift for the special lady¹ in your life? For a mere $3, all of which is donated to the Access Fund, you can download the 2012 edition of the Men Of Routesetting calendar. Flowers are going to be dead in a few days.
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The MORS calendar lasts all year long…

Or man ↩

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New Free Climb On Mexican Big Wall By Alex Honnold

Posted February 13, 2012 at 10:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Climbing.com has the report on a trip Alex Honnold, Will Stanhope and Paul McSorley took to Mexico to climb on El Gran Trono Blanco.
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Among other things the trip yielded a new 11 pitch 5.
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13 that was freed by Honnold:

“The route is fairly runout and will most likely never be downrated, if you know what I mean,” said photographer Andrew Burr. “It was mega-hot, and watching Alex negotiate the roof and heinously thin slab traverses in the heat was some of the most impressive leading either myself or Stanhope has ever witnessed.”

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