Archive | July, 2014

Heather Weidner Repeats Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b)

Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:

The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…

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Audrey Sniezek Repeats Lost World (5.14b)

Audrew Sniezek, writing on her blog about how she juggles a full-time job and sending 5.14b with her recent repeat of Lost World  at Little Si, WA:

The early morning routine, if you don’t already know this about me, is sport climbing ‘alpine style’ starting at the crack of dawn. We call ourselves the Breakfast Club or the Morning Crew and though the group has dwindled down over the years to only a few remaining, it was exciting to see a resurgence in numbers. The morning group has been gathering and climbing at this wall and Exit 38 since as early as 2005. We come from all around the city, meet and carpool to the cliff sometimes in the dark so we can get the most time on the wall before having to rush back to the city for work.
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While there has been an ebb and flow of the morning group, there has generally been a core set, primarily Microsoftees, that have endured and includes myself. These early morning sessions allow us to get in some good climbs with cooler temps and no crowds.
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We get in a full day at work and for those with families, get to enjoy dinner at home with their spouse and kids. In the summer, the sun hits the wall as early as 8:30 and if it’s a hot day, can become impossible to climb on the wall by 9:30, which is perfect for us. We can easily be off the wall and in the office by 10:30/11am.

I’ll always be that much more impressed with someone’s hard climbing if they are doing it while juggling “real world” responsibilities at the same time.
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The Time Value Of Climbing Ability

It’s like the past 15 years of my climbing life are flashing before my eyes each time I re-read this post on the Rock Climber’s Training Manual blog:

For many climbers, the unrestrained desire to climb all the time will be their undoing. This becomes particularly apparent when injuries and rehabilitation are involved, but rehabbing from an injury and improving are really just different ends of the same spectrum.
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Imagine “Jake” has a minor ligament strain in his ring finger. Jake also has a road trip scheduled for early fall.
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Laying out his training schedule it becomes clear that he won’t be in shape for his fall road trip unless he compresses his re-hab and skips all the extra rest days his Physical Therapist recommended. So that’s what he does, and three weeks in his “minor” ligament strain is now a minor tear, and a major bummer.
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It will take Jake 6 months to get healthy again, assuming he’s ever able to find the patience he couldn’t muster a few weeks ago.

Ugh.  They might as well have replaced the fictional name “Jake” with my own.

Feeding into exactly what the post is about though, I’ve been slowly picking my way through the Rock Climber’s Training Manual training book.  The book is full of really great, actionable ideas, and I plan on devoting some time to following one of their training plans…just as soon as I battle through this minor finger injury in an attempt to climb a project I’m probably not really strong enough to actually do1.

  1.  Sadly, not a joke
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Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15

Nice piece on about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day.
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Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

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Video Friday – 7/25/2014

Psicocomp news and the highest rated videos of the past week

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Adam Ondra Climbs Biographie, World Barely Notices

A funny thing happened earlier this week: Adam Ondra “finally” repeated Biographie in Céüse and barely anyone seemed to notice.

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Sonnie Trotter:

In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of the Shield on El Capitan in Yosemite, and hoped to find the perfect training ground close to home.
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The Shield is a thin, technically challenging seam, and the three local boys (found in this photo below), finally discovered what they thought would be the ideal line, a rare and steep splitter finger crack on a blank wall.
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Cool story.

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