Please share photos of your new baby, recent trip, day hike, birthday cake, rock climb, sunrise, cute dog, dirty feet, amazing meal, inspiration, and happy moments. I will double-tap that, and click “Like,” and I will be happy for you just a tiny digital bit.
→ Please Continue Instagramming Your Amazing Life∞
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![12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Getting It Done At Home & Abroad](https://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/themes/canvas/functions/thumb.php?src=wp-content/images/mc_magic_wood.jpg&w=200&h=200&zc=1&q=90)
12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Getting It Done At Home & Abroad
Mirko Caballero continues to rack up an impressive list of hard sends
→ What Happened To Climbing Films∞
Chris Parker, writing in this week’s TNB for Rock & Ice:
Excuse the extended metaphor, but five-minute Internet videos or short films packaged and viewable only in a film festival format have all but replaced the narrative/character-driven, feature-length climbing movies of yesterday.
I’ve been a bit nostalgic lately myself for climbing movies of yesteryear, but I don’t think it has anything to do with filmmakers abandoning the feature-length format. As Parker points out later in the piece when he reviews two feature-length movies that were just released, feature-length films are still being made1. In fact, my favorite movies from “back in the day” were the Dosage movies which were, at a base level, a series of short films with no real inter-connected storyline packaged together.
I wonder a lot about whether or not the high esteem we hold older movies in is more a factor of where we were in our progression as climbers when those films were made. I was just getting started climbing when movies like Rampage and Dosage 1 were made, and they played a formative role in shaping my growth as a young climber. Watching them got me really psyched to go climbing, and me and my friends would, of course, try our best Obe Carrion or Dave Graham impressions out while we were flailing on V5s pretending we were climbing The Flying Marcel or something. Re-watching those movies now elicits all kind of nostalgic feelings that movies made now can’t approach. It seems likely that this was the case for Parker and the movies put out by Sender Films.
Am I just a sucker for nostalgia, or is there something more to this? Let me know in the comments.
- Quite a lot of them actually: Island Vol 1, The Network, Chasing Winter, Western Gold, The Abyss and so on ↩
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→ 2nd Ascent Of La Force Tranquille (V15) By Nalle Hukkataival∞
Nalle Hukkataival is on a roll:
Just climbed La Force Tranquille V15 in Magic Wood!! Had a devastating fall from the easy top slab because a hold broke, but managed to pull it together and climb it again next try all the way to the top! One of the best hard boulders in the world!!
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→ The Understanding∞
Nalle Hukkataival, writing on his blog about a problem called The Understanding that he just opened in Magic Wood, Switzerland:
This beautiful project caught my eye the very first time I saw it on my first trip to Magic Wood back in 2004 and being one of the most striking lines in Magic Wood, it’s hard to walk past it without at least giving it a thought. It’s one of the first lines ever brushed in Magic Wood and over 10 years later it still hasn’t seen an ascent.
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Until today!
No mention of the all important grade, but looking at Hukkataival’s 27 Crags ticklist one can see that he has done almost 50 V14s or harder so it will be interesting to see where he comes out on this problem.
![Video Friday – 6/14/2013](https://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/themes/canvas/functions/thumb.php?src=wp-content/images/Screen-Shot-2013-06-13-at-8.21.27-AM.png&w=200&h=200&zc=1&q=90)
Video Friday – 6/14/2013
All the latest videos can be found here, but here are the top 5 highest rated videos from the past week:
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→ Mapping Yosemite’s Granite∞
Fascinating study being done by Roger Putnam on the different types of granite that make up the most famous granite formation in the world:
To get a more complete and detailed picture, Putnam spent six weeks doing fieldwork on El Capitan, in May and June of last year. During that time he climbed the entire face three times and rappelled all the way down twice. He also climbed numerous shorter routes, always working with an experienced climber as partner.
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