Archive | March, 2013
Four Walls Freed In Zion In A Day For Caldwell & Honnold, Three Solos In A Day For Honnold

Four Walls Freed In Zion In A Day For Caldwell & Honnold, Three Solos In A Day For Honnold

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell team up for a huge day of free climbing in Zion after which Honnold does some scrambling…

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Tommy Caldwell, writing for La Sportiva about a trip to Switzerland that had him questioning the mantra that “Sport Climbing is Neither”:

Yeah, sport climbing is the safe type of climbing… right. That is what I was telling myself as I looked down and saw my rope hanging free for thirty feet then gently arcing towards my last bolt more than 40 feet away. I looked up… no more bolts in sight and no possible place for gear either.
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If I fall here I am looking at a 100-foot fall that will leave me hanging 40 feet below my belayer.
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But it’s a free fall. I should be all right…maybe.

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Kevin Landolt

I was pretty bummed this afternoon to read the news that Kevin Landolt had passed away.  Kevin, who had been battling leukemia, was interviewed in episode 26 of the Enormcast which you can listen to here if you haven’t already1.

I may go back and listen again myself as Kevin’s situation was really quite powerful to hear, and I can’t quite imagine what it would be like to hear it now that he has unfortunately passed on.
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 I told myself upon initially listening that I would become a bone marrow donor through marrow.org, but as often happens in life I never quite got around to doing it until today after hearing this news.

My thoughts are with his friends and family.

  1.  I’d actually recommend going back and listening to all the episodes if you haven’t heard them.
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Video Friday – 3/15/2013

Video Friday – 3/15/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Freak Moments

Daniel Woods, blogging for The Island about his outlook for 2013 as well as his attempts on Lucid Dreaming:

Bouldering requires failure to gain success. The majority of our days are failing, and then we get that freak moment when everything clicks and have success.
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In practice this rings true for most of us I think, but then I think about the fact that Woods has flashed V14 and climbed V14 and V15 in a day.  I guess things just click more often for some us?  Either way, this is a good post to read more about a time when things didn’t quite click for Woods.
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 Something tells me not to get used to this happening though.

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Amazing U.S. Trip By Alex Megos

Much like Toru Nakajima, Alex Megos is an under the radar bone crusher that I have somehow failed to post about up to this point.  I actually saw Megos climbing in the flesh back in November in the Red River Gorge when I saw this unassuming kid I didn’t recognize walk up two .
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12d’s in a row as a warmup in the same way I might climb a 5.
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6.  In a word:  effortless.

Once I got home I recognized him as the kid who flashed Pure Imagination (5.14c) in the Red and repeated The Fly (5.14d) in Rumney.  His trip was far from over though, and DPM has the rundown on the rest of his time stateside that saw him climb a lifetime’s worth of hard routes and boulders.

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Quick 2nd Ascent Of Bridge Of Ashes

Quick 2nd Ascent Of Bridge Of Ashes

Lest I get accused again of not giving him proper credit, please take note that Daniel Woods has made a quick second ascent of Dave Graham’s recently completed proposed V15 Bridge Of Ashes at Elkland in Estes Park, CO.  This according to this picture posted by Bearcam Media on Instagram.  No word yet on the grade, but the last two lines of this post on B3Bouldering sound about right to me.

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