DPM reports on Nick Duttle doing the 4th ascent of Tommy Caldwell’s Sarchasm (5.14) located high in RMNP, CO on the Ship’s Prow near Longs Peak:
After breaking a few holds during his efforts at what he calls, “the first fat guy ascent,” Nick felt the line warranted the 5.14b grade. He also noted that it took him longer to figure out the crux on Sarchasm than it did for him to figure out some V14 boulder problems.
The psyche is returning, the Nor’easter is fast approaching and Video Friday videos…
Jorg Verhoeven blogs about his recent efforts in the amazing cave in Flatanger, Norway that yielded a potential 5.
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14d called Nordic Flower with room for much, much more:
I must say, I never seen anything like this place before. The Americans would come up with a ‘Next Level something’, but all I can think of is the next level of astonishment…
Another day at the office yields 5.15 and V15 FAs for Adam Ondra and a 5.14a onsight for Sasha DiGiulian
About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave, James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V9 on the front end of the aforementioned Sleepy Rave. It could be argued that Wheel Of Life is more of a route than a boulder problem (just check out the 12 minute video Ethan Pringle climbing the line), but Kassay registered his ascent as V16 on his 8a scorecard and commented that he’s now trying a “direct” version of the problem.
Update: Kassay updated his blog with some interesting thoughts on the ascent including why it may have taken him longer than some would have thought to put together the full Wheel Of Life:
Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…
Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it.
Daniel Woods ticks off two hard Bernd Zangerl problems in the mountains of Silvretta, Austria
In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact that low key local Adam Taylor repeated Lucifer (5.14c). Taylor had previously done many of the Red’s other hard routes like Pure Imagination (5.14d) and his route Golden Ticket (5.14d).
Update: Well, I jumped the gun a bit as Taylor was simply repeating Lucifer again, not for the first time. Thanks to Eddie for helping to set me straight.
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