Archive | August, 2011
Video Friday – 8/26/2011

Video Friday – 8/26/2011

Posted August 26, 2011 at 8:18 am · Comments { 4 } ·

ClimbingNarc.com gets a makeover and your Video Friday videos

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Joe Kinder On Bad Girls Club FA & Life In South Africa

Posted August 25, 2011 at 5:56 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In the most recent update from his amazing trip around Europe and South Africa Joe Kinder takes a minute to comment on Matty Hong’s recent FA of a route Kinder equipped in Rifle:

The news today was awesome.  I am very proud of Matty and appreciate him showing such respect and his communication.  I appreciate all of the praise from Carlo, Jon, Dave, and Matty.
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 For some reason it makes the whole story end with such a sweet and honest feeling.
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 Matty is a great example of his generation and I would have given up many sends for him to have climbed the first ascent of Bad Girls Club.
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 Way to go man…

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Fischhuber, Stöhr Win 2011 Bouldering World Cup

Fischhuber, Stöhr Win 2011 Bouldering World Cup

Posted August 24, 2011 at 7:32 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Marco Kost

The 2011 Bouldering World Cup circuit finished up last weekend in Munich, Germany with Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr claiming the overall titles while American Alex Puccio cemented her 3rd place finish in the overall standings

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5.14d In Oliana For Chris Sharma

Posted August 23, 2011 at 7:21 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Daila Ojeda mentions on her Spanish blog that before coming to the U.S. for the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, UT and his annual Yo Basecamp in Bishop, CA boyfriend Chris Sharma made quick work of Duele la Realidad (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain.

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Potential 5.14d FA In Rifle By Matty Hong

Posted August 22, 2011 at 1:41 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Rock & Ice has the details on Matty Hong doing the FA of a route Joe Kinder bolted and left as an open project last summer in Rifle, CO called Bad Girls Club:

What makes Bad Girls Club difficult is that it is stacked with difficult boulder problems, culminating with a V-double-digit boulder problem right at the lip of the 100-foot cave. Whether the mythic 5.14d grade will hold remains to be seen.

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The Island Goes Down Under

The Island Goes Down Under

Posted August 22, 2011 at 7:15 am · Comments { 13 } ·

After following the careers of certain well-known American climbers like Chris Sharma and Dave Graham throughout the years one kind of starts to get the feeling like man, these guys have been everywhere. In some sense they have been fortunate enough to travel to seemingly most of the world’s great climbing destinations, but the reality is that world is still a pretty big place.

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5.14d Birthday Present For Charlotte Durif

Posted August 19, 2011 at 3:52 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France’s Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France’s Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website.  First done in 2010 by Adam Ondra, PPP is Durif’s first 5.14d making her likely only the second woman, after Josune Bereziartu, to ever climb a pitch given that grade.  Durif had previously done a couple of 5.
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14c’s including these two she did the FA of back in 2009.

Update:  Much has been made in a thread on 8a.nu about the fact that almost all European news outlets have not reported this news.  Cedric from the French site Kairn.com explains the reasoning behind this action in a comment posted below:

As we discovered that Charlotte is lying a lot about her claims, we decided with other website part of CWN (Climbing Web Network) such as UKClimbing, Belclimb, Klettern…) not to post anymore about her claims if we have no independent witness.
Several elements makes us think that again she did not do what she claims.
Even Beal and Petzl, her sponsors, did not post about her 8c onsight.
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She is strong, very strong. But she (and her father most of all) is lying too much.

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