News & Notes – 8/17/2011

News…

• Jorg Verhoeven had a good week recently redpointing Hades (5.14d) at the “God Wall” in Nassereith, Austria and sending The Never Ending Story (V14, although V13 is getting mentioned a lot these days) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.
• Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse teamed up to make the first repeat of the much-hyped multi-pitch Orbayu on the Naranjo de Bulnes formation in Picos de Europa, Spain.  The climb was first done in 2009 by the Pou brother Eneko and Iker with difficulties suggested up to 5.14c/d.  In this report on Black Diamond’s website Favresse and Pustelnik confirm the quality of the line but humbly suggest that most of the pitches felt easier with difficulties “only” up to 5.14a or b.  Best wishes to Pustelnik as he was badly injured in a ground-fall attempting a new route after the Orbayu ascent.
• According to her 8a scorecard Audrey Sniezek redpointed her first 5.13d in Porn Star at Washington’s Little Si.
• I had to double-check my calendar to make sure it wasn’t April Fool’s Day after Jonathan Siegrist posted some pictures of a huge swoop of blue limestone south of Salt Lake City called The Hoop.  That rock can’t be in American can it?  Apparently it is, and Siegrist had made the trip there to do some work on a video project for Arc’teryx.  Like a true professional he managed to throw down a repeat of Chris Sharma’s “savage, delicate and powerful” Moose Licks (5.14b) after four tries.
• Sasha DiGiulian blogs about her win at the European Youth Cup in Imst, Austria.
• Since breaking his back in a fall in Rifle last summer Josh Wharton won the 2011 Ouray Mixed Climbing comp, enchained three summits in Patagonia and now he’s done the FFA of the Dunn-Westbay route on the iconic Diamond of Longs Peak:

On the day of the free ascent I stumble and fall, and generally epic before sending the crux pitch on my third try of the day. Above, I fall again, cramping and fighting wet rock on numerous sections of tricky 5.12. The rope gets pulled and I manage to put it all together for the first free ascent. I’m tired for a week.

…and Notes

• The Access Fund is looking for your feedback on a series of grant proposals
• The 2011 Bouldering World Cup wraps up this weekend in Munich, Germany.  Scheduled to compete for Team America will be Daniel Woods, Alex Puccio, Courtney Sanders, Sasha DiGiulian and Audrey Sniezek.  Watch the comp live starting Friday at IFSC.tv.
• Speaking of amazing looking rock
• The Outdoor Retailer Trade show has come and gone.  I don’t know if I’ve just been conditioned by my overlord Steve Jobs to want to run out and buy new products the second I see them or what, but I find the product cycles of the outdoor industry to be a bit frustrating.  Some interesting products are being unveiled but it seems like you are lucky if they are actually released within 12 months of being unveiled.  That said, for an overview of some products you might see at some point in the future check out the OR recap from Splitter Choss as well as part 1 and part 2 of DPM’s coverage.
• Today is the last day to enter for a chance to win a free download of Better Than Chocoloate
• On Saturday, August 27th the Rifle Climbers’ Coalition will be putting on the 2011 Rifle Rendez-S.P.E.W in conjuction with the annual clean-up day.  More on how you can compete in the elaborately thought out game of S.P.E.W. here.

• In southern California?  Head out to Carlsbad to meet Steph Davis and Chris Sharma tonight at the SoCal premier of Chuck Fryberger’s latest movie, The Scene.

• Comping up September 2-5 is the Skaha Climbing Festival in Penticton, BC, Canada.  The event will have the usual array of clinics, competitions, gear demos and appearances by Will Stanhope and Beth Rodden.