News & Notes – 11/03/2010

News & Notes – 11/03/2010


  • Paul Robinson had a great day in Switzerland last week when, in the span of about 30 minutes, he sent 3 problems V12 or harder.  Read more at 27Crags.
  • DPM has a nice video of Emily Harrington’s recent ascent of Roadside Prophet (5.14a)  and this video of Sam Elias repeating Tom Foolery (5.14b), both in Rifle, CO.
  • Also in Rifle, Brian Kimball nabbed a repeat of Girl Talk (5.14b) commenting on his 8a scorecard, “first 8c after 10 years of 5.14a finally I have pushed through. WHAT A LINE.”
  • Austria’s Thomas Neyer and Switzerland’s Thomas Schmid have been climbing in the States these past few months, and in that short time they’ve amassed pretty impressive ticklists.  Neyer repeated Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge and Livin’ Astro (5.14c) at Rumney among many other hard lines.  Schmid also did Livin’ Astro and the neighboring 5.14b China Beach. Read more about their trip on Schmid’s blog.  Here’s some video of Neyer climbing Still Life (5.14b) at the New River Gorge:


  • Jonathan Siegrist has also been in Kentucky recently and in between burns on the undone Honeycomb project at the Chocolate Factory he’s pretty much climbed anything and everything.
  • In the past month BJ Tilden has, according to his 8a scorecard, done 2 5.14bs in Whip and Spur at the Wild Iris in Wyoming and Golden at the Cathedral in southern Utah.
  • Bass For Your Face brings us this video (with some rather NSFW music) of Matt Bosley repeating Resolve (aka The Solution Sit), a potential V14 at the Gunks in New York first done by Shawn Diamond in 2008:

  • Jimmy Webb did the FA of Tall Tee at Little Rock City, TN last week suggesting a grade of V13 making it one of the hardest problems in the southeast.
  • Martin Keller climbed something hard in Switzerland.  At least that’s what I think he is saying.
  • Back in October Stone Age Climbing Gym in Albuquerque, NM held their Yank-N-Yard comp and they were able to attract several big names.  The Women’s event was won by Tiffany Hensley while the Men’s event was won by Julian Bautista with the likes of Jon Cardwell, Zach Lerner and Jon Glassberg close on his heels.  Here’s a video from finals:


…And Notes

  • The gathering of many of the world’s strongest climbers known as the Petzl Roctrip 2010 is underway down in Mexico.  You can read updates on what has  gone down here and here.  In addition there is this video which gives you a glimpse of what the climbing in Mexico looks like:

Posted In: Bouldering, Competitions, News, News & Notes, Sport Climbing
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