Climbing Video Release News and Video Friday

Climbing Video Release News and Video Friday

Videos are back this Friday, but first some news about longer form movies.

First, if you’re wondering when/if you’ll be able to buy the movies from the 2010 Reel Rock Tour you’re in luck.  Big Up mentioned on their blog that these films will be released on DVD in late November with downloads following in December.  Apparently they will also be offering downloads of some of their older films which is something to look forward to.

Second, Chuck Fryberger is working on two new climbing projects set for release sometime in the next couple of years.  The Network will profile Kilian Fischhuber “as he reconnects with some of the amazing climbers he’s met on the world cup circuit, and finds out about their local areas and the style of climbing that motivates them to achieve new levels.”  The other project, dubbed The Scene, will be more like previous Fryberger releases Pure and Core as it “compares and contrasts climbers and climbing culture” in Moab, Boulder, Innsbruck and Spain.  Footage of Nalle Hukkataival climbing at Joe’s Valley and in RMNP is already in the can so be on the lookout for The Scene sometime next year.

With that news out of the way let’s get to the videos, both of which highlight some of the new boulder development that took place at Mt. Evans’ Lincoln Lake this past summer.  The first effort comes from the “Island” crew of Chad Greedy, Jon Cardwell and  Dave Graham.  While not the most…polished of movies, “Enter The Wolvo” does an excellent job showcasing the Tour de Force that was Dave Graham this summer.  Just when you think he couldn’t possibly climb another double-digit boulder problem…he climbs another double-digit boulder problem.  Enjoy:

In somewhat of a contrast is the first chapter in the “Lincoln Lake GIANTS!” series brought to you by the guys at Louder Than 11.  This series is focusing on first ascents of all grades at Lincoln Lake with a bit of a story thrown in for good measure.  A new episode will be released each Monday with the grand finale set for November 22nd so keep an eye out for those.

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66 Responses to Climbing Video Release News and Video Friday

  1. None November 5, 2010 at 8:37 am #

    The editing was entertaining in the Enter the Wolvo land but yet again the louder than 11 flick was more Bullshit than real climbing… I ended up jumping around the movie a ton because I was looking for something interesting.. Say what you will about Chad Greedy but all hard climbs and a little bullshit I can deal with but the louder than 11 movies are more bull than climbing..

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    • Paul Campbell November 5, 2010 at 9:27 am #

      That was pretty harsh considering how many free movies LT11 release. And most of them are well edited with nice camera work.

      On a side note im psyched that the Reel Rock movies are coming to DVD/Download, there was no showing in Wisconsin this year and I badly wanted to watch the Swiss Machine.

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      • Narc November 5, 2010 at 9:31 am #

        Actually there is a Reel Rock Tour showing next Thursday in Madison. Would be nice to have one closer to us but I’m thinking about making the trip up there to see it.

        Also, the comment from “None” is a bit biased since I’m pretty sure he is friends with the island crew…

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        • Mark November 5, 2010 at 11:58 am #

          Yeah… sorry for the late notice on that. I started planning that a while back and it got taken over from Hoofer Mountaineering and given to WUD Films at the Wisconsin Union. They have the budget, and getting a grant to bring the show in, for FREE at that, was something we just couldn’t pass up. It got final approval last week but advertising only just really got started.

          Hope to see you there!

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        • letsallbebuddies November 5, 2010 at 12:23 pm #

          I thought all these kids were hanging out crushing boulders out there.

          So Narc your saying that some kids from the island crew are logging on here and talking garbage about FREE videos. If that is true that just seems idiotic. Maybe they gain something, but it does not seem very logical, unless they just want to hate.

          Either way it’s two different approaches to videos. I have to say that I LOVE the music and the climbs from Island. I just wish we could get the lsland group an HD camera.

          Either way thanks for the FREE vids.

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          • Narc November 5, 2010 at 12:31 pm #

            Whether or not “None” is part of the island crew is for him to say but if “None” is who his IP address indicates he is then he certainly knows those guys.

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        • Alex Coe November 7, 2010 at 9:41 am #

          Speaking of Reel Rock…For anyone that lives in the midwest (i.e. Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, and Michigan)

          Ohio State University will be hosting a showing of the film at the Gateway Movie Center by campus for $7.00 on Wednesday, November 17th

          Awesome opportunity for us midwest folk!

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  2. Paul Campbell November 5, 2010 at 9:35 am #

    Apparently there IS a showing in WI. Madison on the 11th. Whoops.

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  3. Brian November 5, 2010 at 10:27 am #

    I don’t know anyone from either crew personally and I have to agree with None’s comments (although I would have put it a lot more gently).

    I loved the editing from The Island movie (except the seizure inducing beginning) and thought it was one of the best free videos in a LONG time (probably since ClimbX days).

    I have watched most of the LT11 movies and while I like some, the ones with the story lines I do not. The acting and plot are weak. Better to just stick to the climbing and nice camera work.

    My 2 cents.

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    • Narc November 5, 2010 at 10:50 am #

      Yeah I’m not sure the storyline stuff does much for me either. I guess we’ll just have to see where it goes with the giants series but the acting is not the strongest for sure.

      Say what you will about the Island but there are definitely some hard, amazing looking problems in that video.

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      • Brian November 5, 2010 at 10:58 am #

        I dont really care if the climbers are strong or not, it is just the movie style that I liked better from the Island. Also DG is one of the most interesting climbers out there, in my mind. The only thing that could have made it more interesting was if Fred Nicole was with them!

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        • abe - November 5, 2010 at 10:11 pm #

          fred . . climbing with those guy’s . . yea ! ! !

          that would be like , bruce lee hang out with the ninja turtles .

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          • joeyjoejoe November 6, 2010 at 1:34 am #

            lol

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  4. None November 5, 2010 at 11:15 am #

    The most important thing in a film is who and what is in the Film, I am impressed that louderthan 11 has continued to release tons of free media and it would be interesting to see what would happen if they shot with Dave?

    It was a bit harsh what I said earlier…

    But with all the HYPE I thought it would be more..

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    • Narc November 5, 2010 at 11:28 am #

      All excellent points. I think trying to stretch it out over 4 weeks could be a bit of a mistake that only serves to dilute the product but we shall see.

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      • Jordan Shipman November 6, 2010 at 2:49 pm #

        WOW! I’m psyched to see so much chatter on here about LT11 and the GIANTS video. We appreciate all the feedback. We’re constantly striving to improve our production, style and brand so its good to hear everyone’s thoughts. Lot’s of things to think about! It will take me a while to internalize it all.

        Narc, I’m very curious though–could you explain a bit more why you think it might be a mistake to stretch the release out over 4 weeks? How might it dilute the product? Or how does it dilute it?

        The 4-week/4-chapter release idea is something new for us and I’d really like to hear more of people’s thoughts about it.

        Thanks everyone!

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        • Philly Cheese November 6, 2010 at 4:33 pm #

          Has this become a LT11 vs. Island topic? «Round one, FIGHT!»

          I think the 4 week/4 chapter release idea is cool. Keeps people coming back for more. I know I will ina any case. Props to LT11 for trying new stuff and packaging quality HD video content. I dig their style and beats. I ain’t convinced with the acting either though, but hey, these guys want to have a little fun…why the hell not!

          That being said, I like Chad Greedy’s irreverent approach. «How’d it feel?» is a sorta running joke. Enter the Wolvo is great because of its length too. I mean we all love the quick 5 minute short format, but a half hour of kickass climbing content that showcases the climbers’ (read Dave Graham’s) psyche and vision can’t be beat.

          Hell I’m addicted to climbing porn so you know how it is…I need it!!

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          • Jordan Shipman November 7, 2010 at 11:34 am #

            Thanks for that feedback Philly Cheese! I just want to go ahead and say to everyone that I hope we’re not instigating/getting caught up in an Island vs. LT11 video thing here. We have no interest in measuring our work against others or claiming ours is better than anyone else. As I said before, we are constantly striving to develop a unique style and improve it, make it the best we are capable of. Everyone’s feedback helps us do that, not any sort of contest between us and other video creators. Cheers guys! Thanks again for the feedback, and watching.

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        • Narc November 8, 2010 at 7:36 am #

          Perhaps “dilute” wasn’t the right word but I just know how hard it is to keep people’s attention over any length of time when it comes to the interwebs.

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          • Jordan Shipman November 8, 2010 at 7:58 am #

            Word. I agree with you, attention spans are short on the web. That was actually one of our reasons for splitting the video into chapters. Instead of one long 40 min monster video–4 shorter videos. Once a week. Not the best way to do it? What do you think?

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          • Narc November 8, 2010 at 8:10 am #

            I suppose that’s a good point too. I guess we’ll just have to wait and see how once a week works 🙂

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        • joeyjoejoe November 8, 2010 at 6:50 pm #

          I’d give GIANTS an A+ for visuals. All the climbs are shot beautifully, nice and steady with tripods. The framing of shots is very artistic throughout. And whatever processing you’ve used, messing with saturations, etc., works to great effect.

          The storyline/acting is silly, and shows that the guys are having fun with the filming process, but it inevitably comes across as contrived and ridiculous, and detracts from the films (to maybe a cumulative grade of B). If you had simply shown some interview footage with the climbers talking about the Lincoln Lake experience, and giving some detailed commentary on some of the climbs, that would have made the whole project extraordinary.

          I guess I am working with the assumption that climbing videos should be documentary as much as possible, because the people watching the videos want as much information as possible about the details of the climbs and the experience of the place.

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          • Jordan Shipman November 8, 2010 at 7:16 pm #

            Thanks joeyjoejoe for the feedback!
            I understand you’re point–climbing is something that lends itself to documentary style storytelling and is especially satisfying for the climber audience.
            In GIANTS, the acting and storyline is meant to be completely silly, ridiculous, outrageous and fun. Pure low brow entertainment. I can say that we will never go %100 doc-style in most of our videos simply because we are striving to create something new and also perfect that. I appreciate your feedback because the real creative challenge for us is to figure out how to blend our style with what a lot of climbers want to see and hear. I think bigger production companies like Sender Films and Big-Up have perfected the art of docu-style climbing film. I believe that’s one way to do it. Just as there are a million different ways to make a movie and tell a story, there is more than one way to make a climbing video. Thanks so much for your comments. It really does help give me some insight on how to produce even better more entertaining projects! You rock!

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        • joeyjoejoe November 8, 2010 at 7:31 pm #

          No problem, I enjoy sharing my opinions 🙂

          The only thing I disliked about Chuck Fryberger’s ‘Core’ were the scenes showing the kid playing with the crane game in the abandoned warehouse. Again, because it felt like an extraneous, useless device that didn’t help the film at all. Big Up, Sender and Chuck Fryberger all manage to have distinct visual styles without necessarily even trying to differentiate themselves from one another. And your visual style in “Giants” is unique and beautiful, as well. And that is enough!

          I guess I’d rather that if you want to make little playacting vignettes, you’d make them as separate films. But I understand the desire to experiment, as well.

          Thanks very much for all the time and effort that obviously goes into your films.

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          • Jordan Shipman November 8, 2010 at 7:36 pm #

            You’re too kind! 🙂 You’re very welcome for the videos! I promise they will always be free to the masses for everyone to enjoy. As we grow, we will only work harder. You can put that in the bank. Thanks so much for watching and talking with me! This post has over 50 comments . . . hahaha!

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  5. The Truth November 5, 2010 at 11:17 am #

    It is hard to judge a movie without seeing it in its entirety, maybe we wait and watch all the LT11 flicks first… then comment..

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  6. some November 5, 2010 at 1:16 pm #

    why can’t anyone from colorado make a decent video? I thought they were both pretty bad for their own reasons. LT11’s had tons of lame acting “omg teh bigfootz!!” and apparently chad greedy never learned how to spell let alone edit a video.
    and i guess there are lots of pad stashers in chosslorado.

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  7. el quixote November 5, 2010 at 2:46 pm #

    What’s cool is how climbing videos are developing and finding their niche. Look how far Big UP has come in both style and content. These guys are artists in their ways, just perfecting their craft. Eventually, as their styles mature, they’ll probably make videos that are a strong rep. of their visions.
    I come originally from the surfing community, and I see a lot of parallels between the early 90s surf industry and the climbing industry right now. Some of it is scary (and sad–I fear for the climbing community), but other aspects are super cool–like all the videos.

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  8. Nic Oklobzija November 5, 2010 at 3:21 pm #

    I had a chance to see some of the “Island” footage this summer while in Colorado and all I can say is WOW… It will be a lot different then what they released in “ENTER THE WOLVO” and I would say it is some of the best footage I have watched..

    The cast of the Island is what really makes it a sick movie, the best climbers on the hardest climbs in the world.. simply amazing.

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  9. b3 November 6, 2010 at 12:09 am #

    First of all, I loved ENTER THE WOLVO! So refreshing to see something new, creative and unique. I agree with Nic, Chad is a true character and I would love to see more of that in climbing movies. I find many of Big Ups videos stale and mundane. I think Chad’s videos are really funny and I hope he does more. Maybe because I grew up watching skate movies?

    I think Peter Mortimer’s films are so boring! As for the LT11 crew, whatever, they do their own thing, Jon shares a lot of free media, which is always a good thing. I’m not a huge fan of the acting and what not, but they always have clean vids with good problems. I am sure they will have some nice footage from Swiss.

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  10. Gavin Heverly November 6, 2010 at 7:48 pm #

    I have seen both videos. (for the record, I am pretty “tight” with the LT11 posse crew gang bros.)

    First, it’s pretty obvious that there are two separate concepts here. Showcasing some hard climbs and a couple of the world’s fittest dudes climbing them (The Island), and doing something different/creating a brand/having some fun (LT11). Clearly the acting in the LT11 videos is pure garbage. But I am pretty sure these guys aren’t trying to win awards for acting, they are trying to have some fun and do something that basically has not yet been done in the climbing media world. I mean, I live with Max….and he is not a fucking actor. But that kid can rock climb. So in a way, it’s really cool to see these idiots try to act and make up stories about martians and giants. IT’S FUCKING FUN. I think the Wolvo vid was a pretty tough watch. The editing was horrible, and obviously the camera quality isn’t so hot either. However, the climbs and the climbers are obviously impressive. Even if it did seem a little self-masturbatory. Chad and The Island posse will hopefully find there groove and get a better idea of what they want to do and how to do it. If “Enter the Wolvo” is it, then I would say that’s a bummer. If it’s not, I’d say it’s a pretty awesome start. The LT11 guys obviously have a slightly more stylized brand and concept of where they want to go. Why would anyone fault them for that? Seriously? My only real gripe with the GIANTS #1 is that most of those boulder problems look fucking terrible, with the exception of that amazing blade arete V4.

    But seriously, are we even arguing about this…ON THE INTERNET? What are we, a culture of 12 year olds? Get over yourselves. Both the movies are rad.

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    • joeyjoejoe November 6, 2010 at 10:17 pm #

      Thumbs up for thoughtful rationality.

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  11. b3 November 7, 2010 at 4:03 am #

    I prefer to see the best climbers on the hardest problems. I hope Chad retains his rough image. I hate slick footage. I prefer Minor Threat to Justin Beiber, but that’s just a personal preference. Again, I’m psyched there is so much to watch.

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    • joeyjoejoe November 7, 2010 at 2:30 pm #

      ‘Enter the Wolvo’ has a cool feeling of camaraderie to it, because it’s really just a bunch of guys hanging out at the crag every day filming their antics. But there can be no doubt that the shitty cameras detract from quality/value of the product.

      I personally think the benchmark for climbing videos right now is Chuck Fryberger’s ‘Core.’ He tells the stories of the climbers (in a much more comprehensible way than ‘Enter the Wolvo’) while also showing their big sends with insane HD clarity. Listening to BJ Tilden talk about his super-long-time project, ‘Genetic Drifter,’ about the quality of the rock and types of holds, gets my palms sweaty. After the great backstory and build-up, the actual send footage is not only aesthetically breathtaking, but emotional for the viewer. You get to see a super close-up slow-mo shot of the two finger crimp/pocket BJ described earlier, as he adjusts his grip and settles into the heinous position, grinding chalk into the air. In the end, you feel like you’ve been through a bit of the journey with the climber and understand the value and joy of it on their terms.

      I am interested to know what, exactly, you hate about ‘slick footage.’

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  12. TehCritiC November 7, 2010 at 7:37 am #

    Lots of comments on quality, so ill throw in my 2cents. Split screen sucks for climbing videos and doesn’t make for “good editing” even if I’m seeing a lot of it lately. Tracking shots, multiple camera angles for the same send, closeups, music that matches and enhances the mood of the video, interesting transitions between segments, and limited scrolling text get me psyched. I don’t want to feel like I’m watching a PowerPoint presentation that goes something like “slide 1 title, slide 1 character, slide 1 music, slide 2 title, slide 2 character, slide 2 music” etc. But I agree, these are free videos so I’m not going to 100% bash them, just watch and enjoy the new footage. But if I’d paid for them, I’d be pissed.

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  13. ktmt November 7, 2010 at 10:36 am #

    Agree with el quixote –it’s about individual style. As the market gets more crowded, it becomes harder to create something new.

    I like the LT11 videos I’ve seen. They remind me of early Big Up stuff in that there’s an elment of polish and professionalism, maybe a predictor of bigger things to come.

    The Island crew does seem to have come up with a unique style. Sure there’re some rough spots, places where the scene could be shortened (the long downhill approach at the beginning) or could be extended (the film makes a point to introduce Jamie Emerson, but never shows him completing a problem), but it managed to hold my attention for the full 30 minutes. For me, that’s not a given when you’re talking pure bouldering porn. It will be fun to see what Graham and Greedy come up with next.

    Speaking of climbing porn, what’s to be made of this http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/natalija-gros-bikini-bouldering –art? pandering? neither?

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    • hugitoutbitch November 7, 2010 at 5:15 pm #

      If you watch some of the old big up stuff you would see that it actually similar to the island guys stuff. The old big up stuff is really rough (which I like). I just want to see people out there having fun crushing problems that I can’t get too.

      The island video seemed to capture the things that I’ve been reading about the hard group of climbers that gathered in CO for the summer to crush together. For that I’m thankful that Chad and those boys posted it.

      Here’s to everyone putting out videos…

      The only thing I really want to see is footage of the golden ticket.

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  14. b3 November 7, 2010 at 3:43 pm #

    A) I find it boring, and it allows less room for creativity, because you are bounded by the fence of polish.
    B) I would prefer to watch something closer to my actual experience. Wolvoland is probably the most extreme bouldering area in the country. It is intimidating, difficult, joyous, epic, insane; basically everything but boring. The films that are produced from this area should be equally extreme because I feel that conveys more of what it was actually like to be there on a day to day basis.
    C) I have a personal preference for counter culture movements, like punk rock, post-modernist literature, avant-garde classical music and performance art. Turning climbing into Monday Night Football to popularize it or promote it is unnecessary and uninteresting.
    D) One of the most important and interesting aspects of almost anything (movies, lit., music, sports) involving humans, I feel, is the human character. It is often difficult to produce a great character in something so slickly produced. There are hundreds of examples.
    E) As a general precept, I simply prefer grittiness over slickness, visually and sonically.
    D) I want films to be ridiculous. LT11 achieves that, maybe not in the way I would like to see it, but nevertheless it is ridiculous and that is less boring. Chad does a great job of it and I can’t wait to see the next installment from both!

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    • huggingitout November 7, 2010 at 5:20 pm #

      “C) I have a personal preference for counter culture movements, like punk rock, post-modernist literature, avant-garde classical music and performance art. Turning climbing into Monday Night Football to popularize it or promote it is unnecessary and uninteresting.”

      This right here! Can’t agree more. Like your style.

      It’s just simply the shift we are seeing, for better or for worse.

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    • joeyjoejoe November 7, 2010 at 10:05 pm #

      I can wholeheartedly agree that Chad does a great job of being ridiculous.

      As far as hi-def goes in climbing movies, isn’t it a no-brainer? Wouldn’t you rather see more definition in the rock, more detail in the holds, more subtleties in the environment? Can’t people still be ridiculous with hi-def cameras? If not, then how do you choose the perfect degree of non-hi-defness? Should Chad maybe save “Wolvo” over itself with compression a few times to achieve maximal grittiness?

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    • el quixote November 9, 2010 at 12:07 pm #

      What kind of pomo lit are you reading? Post-modernism is the apex of over-wrought, overly-conscious, overly-slick style. It’s a moment in the arts when artists have been responding to everything that came before–form, history, etc. Pynchon, DeLillo, Wallace, Barth, Barthelme, McCarthy–even Mark Danielewski or Mark Amerika to name the big Americans, or the French Roman Noveau, or Roberto Bolano, or others. Unless of course you mean Burroughs or Phillip K. Dick, who aren’t postmodern, but everyman hi-brow (which defeats your point).

      And avant garde music? Phillip Glass, Miles Davis’ Bitch’s Brew, Coltrane’s Ascenscion I & II, and Sun Ship? This is lo-fi counter culutre? Or do you mean noise-rock bands like Sonic Youth?

      Your inane comparisons (Minor Threat vs Justin Beiber, rock vids vs Monday Night Football), and off-course citations of other genres makes your other judgements questionable, too.

      I’m just saying–if you’re gonna put an opinion on everybody like this, then let’s disect it…

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  15. Nate P. November 7, 2010 at 10:19 pm #

    So spake huggingitout
    “C) I have a personal preference for counter culture movements, like punk rock, post-modernist literature, avant-garde classical music and performance art. Turning climbing into Monday Night Football to popularize it or promote it is unnecessary and uninteresting.”

    This right here! Can’t agree more. Like your style.

    It’s just simply the shift we are seeing, for better or for worse.

    Question, why does Kehl refuse to park the freak van in Joe’s? He is a punk and got treated like one by righteous Americans who respect decency and the right to have birthday parties at climbing gyms. Yes, climbing is the new snowboarding, is the grain of sand in your ass crack, is apparently what all of the nancy boy style quotient blathering fluff is centering on. Is it not time to discuss all of the wonderful fashion ideas we are picking off of these vibrant well illuminated people so full of themselves being so filling to us?

    Not an asshole
    Nate (Sandy) P.

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  16. best of the east November 8, 2010 at 7:18 am #

    Island all the way!!
    Like B3 said, I hate polished, nice, good looking and BORING videos. What i like in Chad’d videos is they feel real, i don’t care about High definition and all that bullshit, what i like is pure vibe, direct action, people going out, climbing and put that on a video

    but I grow up watching skate videos too so..

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  17. Narc November 8, 2010 at 8:59 am #

    As always, thanks to everyone for the comments. It’s interesting to read about the different style preferences everyone has so thanks to everyone for sharing.

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  18. Gavin Heverly November 8, 2010 at 11:19 am #

    OK. I’ll be the first to say it. I just watched chapter 2 of LLG by LT11….It’s probably the least punk rock climbing film of all time. I mean, first off….Josh Hartnett? Really? Although I am impressed, I didn’t know he could climb V9. Orange parachute pants on that short fellow? ORANGE PANTS ARE NOT PUNK. And who is that girl with the boyish man-back?

    Then again, that monster coming out of the water COULD BE Glen Benton from DEICIDE. Maybe they are trying to be metal and not punk.

    Although that doesn’t explain the pounding synth beats.

    God I am confused.

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  19. Kevin G November 8, 2010 at 12:22 pm #

    Just a note to the Enter the Wolvo editor – at 2:30 ish you have “The Decent into…” instead of Descent.

    Easy typo to make – just thought you might want to know.

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  20. Jason November 8, 2010 at 2:08 pm #

    “Shampoo is better, I go on first and clean the hair. No, conditioner is better! I leave the hair silky and smooth.”

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  21. Jcoop November 8, 2010 at 4:32 pm #

    I find both videos entertaining in different ways. LT11’s videos are polished, edited well, and show a wide range of grades. Chad’s video offer a unique view into the process of projecting by one of climbing’s most unique personalities, Graham.

    With that said, if Greedy’s video documented your run of the mill V10 climber, no one would care for it. The only reason why the video is entertaining is because it’s essentially a reality video about Dave Graham, with cameos by Daniel Woods. (for the record, I would watch a reality show about Dave)

    Ultimately, I don’t really care about the level of editing as long as it’s entertaining, and I hope both parties continue to produce free climbing media. We can bicker about which format is best(this is the internet after all!), but the fact that we have a growing array of readily available options to select from is an exciting prospect for everybody.

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    • Narc November 8, 2010 at 5:04 pm #

      “With that said, if Greedy’s video documented your run of the mill V10 climber, no one would care for it. The only reason why the video is entertaining is because it’s essentially a reality video about Dave Graham, with cameos by Daniel Woods. (for the record, I would watch a reality show about Dave)”

      I’ve been wondering the same thing myself…

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    • joeyjoejoe November 8, 2010 at 5:28 pm #

      “With that said, if Greedy’s video documented your run of the mill V10 climber, no one would care for it.”

      This. Exactly.

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  22. joeyjoejoe November 8, 2010 at 4:35 pm #

    LOL. As if growing up watching skate videos is some kind of excuse for disliking videos with any semblance of production quality in climbing videos. I grew up watching skate videos, too. And I think if Coliseum skate shop had access to HD cameras, they would have certainly used them to film “PJ Ladd’s Wonderful Horrible Life.” Do you think it’s a coincidence that the editing and film quality of skating videos have gotten progressively better and better with time? Skate videos are the ultimate realized product of months or even years of extremely hard work. And it’s your opinion that this product just be shat out of some dude’s computer and onto the internet with as little care as possible? Pffft. Even videos edited by 13-year-olds submitted for the Berrics’ Younited Nations contest have better production quality than “Enter the Wolvo.”

    The only defense Island could give for the weak production quality of “Wolvo” is that their friend, Chad, enjoys filming and editing, and they decided to let him handle it. But Daniel and Dave are two of the absolute best climbers in the world, and their work deserves more. If Chad made climbing shoes of the same quality as his videos, would you wear the shoes just because he’s your friend?

    To Jamie, specifically, it is curious that your own photography on your website is usually very high-resolution, beautiful and ‘polished’ in a very traditional sense, despite the fact that you grew up watching gritty skate films.

    I just watched GIANTS, and have to say that its vibe has more character and feels more fun, even with its high production quality (actually, probably partially because of it). The cinematography really makes Lincoln Lake look gorgeous and otherworldly, while “Wolvo” made it look like a dark, dank valley.

    Blah. I love free videos and enjoy nearly all of them. I just feel compelled to call out nonsensical criticism when I see it.

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    • joeyjoejoe November 8, 2010 at 4:39 pm #

      Apologies for that ridiculous first sentence. Should read:

      LOL. As if growing up watching skate videos is some kind of excuse for disliking videos with any semblance of production quality.

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    • Jcoop November 8, 2010 at 4:49 pm #

      I commented a few minutes before you joey and agree with almost everything you said. The only thing I disagree with is that Dave and Daniel deserve better. Dave and Daniel are arguably the second most popular American climbers out there. Nearly all the media released involving them is a polished, finely edited product. That’s what I think Enter the Wolvo’s redeeming quality is, it gives a gritty perspective into two of climbing’s most popular and exposed(media wise) athletes.

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      • joeyjoejoe November 8, 2010 at 5:16 pm #

        Ah, interesting. I guess I wish “Wolvo” could have maintained the unfettered insight into the psyche and character of the setting while also showing more detail in the rock. I see these incredible lines and body movements, but have no idea what the rock quality or individual holds are actually like.

        I also think there could have been a lot more dialogue, especially with Dave. For all the talk about how “Wolvo” is about this particular group of friends in a very particular place and time, I don’t really walk away from the video with any appreciable sense of the minds and characters of the individuals, or of their friendships with one another.

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    • Crimp'n Ain't Easy November 8, 2010 at 11:58 pm #

      holy shit…PJ Ladds is sick…definitely a better soundtrack than both

      sorry boys but let’s clear somethings up…

      grittiness isn’t a synonym for schizophrenic or haphazard…wolvo was blatantly too frantic (take the first 6 minutes save DG’s interaction with the ranger)…perhaps decidely, but distracting nonetheless

      also…who cares if jon g, et al. blazed and thought adding giant bones and footprints would be funny…that’s their shit…i guess it was pretty odd

      frankly both videos are eccentric and goofy and weird and thats cuz they were made by dudes who hang out in the mountains with wolverines all day…

      both videos were sick and complemented one another…yea im psyched to see a bunch of v13+ problems get shit on, but im as excited about blocs where I can actually see holds too

      frankly the best wolvoland video is this one…
      http://vimeo.com/14993382

      talks bout the climb, super earnest, well shot, aesthetic, captivating, lets you feel triumphant vicariously, and a sick song to boot

      Also is Nalle the rodney dangerfield of climbing… his videos are pretty fuckin excellent and still her ‘gets no respect’

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      • joeyjoejoe November 9, 2010 at 1:05 am #

        Agreed, Nalle is the MAN. His videos are also super awesome. His ‘Ninja Skills’ video is one of my all-time favorites. What an amazing line.

        http://vimeo.com/8374073

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      • Narc November 9, 2010 at 8:35 am #

        I enjoyed that movie quite a bit as well. It’s funny because the video pretty much came out of nowhere from a guy people didn’t really associate with the scene up there.

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  23. b3 November 9, 2010 at 12:09 am #

    I don’t know what to say. I like what I like.
    I usually shoot with a high ISO to get grainier photos, but I am not a photographer. I am just trying to take pics of things because so many people like looking at the problems and the climbers. Once again, just trying to share this amazing area with everyone…

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  24. AB November 9, 2010 at 12:14 am #

    Ultimately, it’s all about the ability to tell a story. You can tell a story through any medium–whether gritty or finely polished, whether shot with a 5D Mark II or an iPhone. We’re all just looking to be told a good story.

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  25. Narc November 9, 2010 at 8:34 am #

    Say what you will about either video but the fact that they have people talking and engaged is a win for both

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  26. OBdizzy November 9, 2010 at 4:48 pm #

    This is art. There are objective standards, but ultimately it’s a subjective experience. Justification can lend weight to the appeal of an individual opinion, but it can’t make someone’s experience right or wrong. We like what we like. I thought Wolvo was amazing, and the ‘Giants thing’ was kind of stupid. Both videos have some good rock-climbing.

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  27. Nice Wank top November 9, 2010 at 6:43 pm #

    How can you people continue to bleat such ineffectual drivel about whatever flock of peeps you seem to be trying to follow. Trad giving bouldering a little respect was an obvious mistake and any artistic offerings from the likes of Fryberger and his ilk have only gotten worse. All of you here should take a good solid look in the mirror and decide just where that last step toward being utterly queer is in relation to being so dedicated to the style and emotional content of these men you are idolizing. Either grow a slit or be more open to just what kind of “PUSHER” you are advertising. Really, those wank tops are just teasing for a tickle.

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  28. TimS November 11, 2010 at 2:52 pm #

    I must agree with the people who enjoyed the Wolvoland vid best, it’s not great, but I prefer it so much to the LT11 stuff. I’m sure they are lovely in real life, but that whole crew come over as really conceited and arrogant in their whole internet output.

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    • Jordan Shipman November 11, 2010 at 3:40 pm #

      Really? How does the LT11 crew come off as arrogant and conceited with our “internet output?” Can you cite some specific examples? I’d like to know.

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