The 4th stage of the 2009 IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup was held last weekend in Puurs, Belgium with two familiar names taking the top spots on the podium. For the Women it was Austria’s Johanna Ernst winning in a superfinal over Ja-Jin Kim of South Korea and Slovenia’s Maja Vidmar. On the Men’s side of the ledger, Czech wunderkind Adam Ondra literally sprinted to victory, topping out the finals route in front of a game Patxi Usobiaga.
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Apparently that practice is paying off for Ondra.
Much better than words about the comp; however, is the glut of media available for those interested in seeing what a world class European lead climbing competition looks like.
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The Puurs World Cup website has some nice pictures as well as a video archive of the live stream. In addition, Udini put together these side by side comparison videos of the top 3 finishers which really give you a sense for how differently Adam Ondra climbs when compared to his competitors.
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_eu-OGlzeM
httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdjUP5s9BBY
Women’s Results
- Johanna Ernst – AUT
- Ja-In Kim – KOR
- Maja Vidmar – SLO
- Angela Eiter – AUT
- Charlotte Durif – FRA
![womenspodiumpuurs[2][2]](http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/OndraErnstWinWorldCupInPuursBelgium_618D/womenspodiumpuurs22.jpg "womenspodiumpuurs[2][2]")
Men’s Results
- Adam Ondra – CZE
- Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza – ESP
- Manuel Romain – FRA
- Romain Desgranges – FRA
- Klemen Becan – SLO
![menspodiumpuurs[2][2]](http://climbingnarc.com/wp-content/images/OndraErnstWinWorldCupInPuursBelgium_618D/menspodiumpuurs22.jpg "menspodiumpuurs[2][2]")
H/T to Joost for the Udini videos. Speaking of Udini, does anyone know where a person might find the somewhat legendary “wizard” video interview with Dave Graham that was once posted on Udini’s site? Thanks to the commenters for their help in finding the video!
Hej hej,
theres a video interview with david graham speaking about realization on one of the “lizenz zum klettern” dvds. i can tell you later when im home from work.
greetings
benedikt
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Yep, I believe that is the one.
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Huh, it looks like those LaSportiva Cobras are a popular choice among the strong gym-crowd. Maybe mine aren’t as close to retirement as I thought…
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I like how the winners get Duvel. Now that is a prize!
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Plus, there are more sponsors than you can even count in the background.
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Ondra’s chief weapons appear to be fear, supplies, and ruthless efficiency. No screwing around whatsoever. Impressive.
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That was very impressive to watch. Ondra seemed to climb much more efficiently through the hard moves. While he may lack the strength to shake out all the time he sure made up for with speed.
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That video is on vimeo now, its under Flow Media as Dave Graham interview
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Excellent, thanks for the heads up.
http://vimeo.com/6048642
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dave graham interview:
http://www.udini.com/index.php?Itemid=149&id=203&option=com_content&view=article
but the vimeo video on your link above works just fine, too.
http://climbingnarc.com/2007/09/dave-graham-interview
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Anything to help the infamous Narc. Big fan. Also, a little extra eye candy from our boy Chad Greedy
http://vimeo.com/4227688
Garret Gregor on El Techo de los Tres b
and Diesel himself Jon Cardwell on Nalles’ The Machinist
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He makes them look like they have no idea what they’re doing….they climb 15a….
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Did anybody else notice that the women are climbing the same route as the men (as their superfinal) and that Johanna Ernst almost does the route?! She would have gotten second, behind Adam Ondra, if she was scored in the men’s category. I find that to be extremely impressive.
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