Video Of 2 Recent Chris Schulte Boulder Canyon FAs

Video Of 2 Recent Chris Schulte Boulder Canyon FAs

An area like Boulder Canyon outside Boulder, CO is the type of climbing area you would think holds zero first ascent potential given its proximity to so many climbers, but that was not the case earlier this spring when Chris Schulte opened two new boulders on the granite blocs found there.

He described his efforts in sending Davey Jones Footlocker (V8) and Authentic Battle Damage (V12 or 13) in a recent entry on Black Diamond’s new website:

Usually, when I think there’s nothing more to discover, something crops up, like the most recent finds: Davey Jones Footlocker and Authentic Battle Damage. My girlfriend and I discovered these by chance after a mellow day out, trying to get used to the granite after a winter spent on the sandstone of Fontainebleau.
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Davey Jones is high, with a crux move from a heel-toe cam out over a sloping boulder that’ll pitch you into the torrential creek. Just around the corner sits ABD, a horizontal compression prow climbed via poor slopers, toe, and heel hooks: my absolute favorite style of climbing. A couple days work, a lot of pad hauling, and a generous in-the-creek spot by our friend Chad Cates, and the Footlocker was born, only two days after the ABD. I can only venture a round guess at the grades, but I’m certain they are both amazing climbs, and they are both waiting for a second ascent…

Video of Chris Schulte on the FA of Davey Jones Footlocker and Authentic Battle Damage

New Boulder Canyon guidebook

Posted In: Bouldering


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4 Responses to Video Of 2 Recent Chris Schulte Boulder Canyon FAs

  1. peter b July 28, 2009 at 8:23 am #

    The reason Boulder Canyon still has potential for bouldering FAs are the many much better areas in the proximity. While there is some very good climbing to be found there, most will head to Evans or the Park or the Flatirons. Chris has done a great job in ferreting out these problems.

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  2. Philip July 28, 2009 at 7:17 pm #

    Well, Evans and the Park are of course better, but in the winter they aren’t options. Personally, I think Boulder Canyon is way better than the Flatirons, especially in terms of double digit climbs. I think it’s awesome that there are people out there who establish these new FAs and I have nothing but respect for the time and effort it takes to do so.

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  3. Andrew July 29, 2009 at 12:37 am #

    Chris is one of the nicest people I have ever met climbing. He was excited about any climb, and the effort you put in. Truly a kind person, and strong climber. Not often you meet pros that are as personable as Chris. Good to see more media of him! Chris where is the video of NMGG?

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  4. chris schulte July 30, 2009 at 6:52 pm #

    Thanks for the kind regards, folks… It’s almost as if there is a shift of values happening in bouldering today, and not a moment too soon. It’s amazing how much we can accomplish if we support each other in a positive manner, rather than with infighting and backstabbing and so on.. So, again, thanks..
    Boulder Canyon is great! But, let;s not forget the awesome potential that areas like the Flatirons still hold for those willing to hike.. Maybe not the ‘irons Proper, but that same fin goes a ways, if you know what I mean..
    As far as NMGG goes, I split my tip shooting for my website, and bailed.. Ouch, but oh well.. There is so much footage of that line, beautiful though it may be! Check out MVM to see P Rob WALK it.. or B3 for Jamie’s solid send. Archives, both..
    Thanks again, see y’all out there as soon as I get back (and it stops raining!)
    ps.. the double cracks at Cobb Rock are still there, waiting to be v15+ FA’d… Who?!
    I need a hero!…. He/She’s gotta be strong, and they gotta be fast and they gotta be larger than li-eeefe..

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