News & Notes – 05/13/2008

News & Notes – 05/13/2008

I have another interesting topic for discussion tomorrow, but in the meantime here are a few links for your perusal:

  • If you enjoy salivating over the posts at the Betabase blog, you should consider checking out the blog of Justin Alarcon.  In this post, he spends the day bouldering in The Valley with Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell.  Cool stuff.
  • For those that have read Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air, you might want to check out the Frontline documentary on PBS tonight entitled “Storm Over Everest”. In the documentary, David Breashears & others present during the 1996 tragedy on Mt. Everest return to recount what happened on that fateful day.  It airs from 8 pm to 10 pm CST.

  • Speaking of David Breashears, FRB has a great interview up with an old climbing partner of his, Steve Mammen.  Steve has some great stories to share about climbing in the Frontrange back in the 1970’s including his seconding of the Eldorado Canyon fright-fest Perilous Journey after Breashears got the FA.  He also has insights on what it feels like to climb at age 50 that make me feel like my clock is ticking…
  • Daniel Woods is really cranking things up as his trip to Europe apparently comes to an end.  His most recent success at Magic Wood, Switzerland was his link of Dave Graham’s V11/12 Left Hand of Darkness into his own recently opened Remembrance of Things Past (V14) to create In Search Of Time Lost (V15).  These ascents bring his total of V11 or harder problems to an astounding 60 over his 6 month stay in Europe!  11 of these ascents were V14 or harder!  Jamie Emerson has a bit more background.

Daniel Woods is Strong

Photo:  David Pearson

Adam Ondra is Strong

Photo:  Giulio Malfer

  • If someone could please translate this Dave Graham pro blog into English that would be helpful
  • I climbed last night!  And it went pretty well!  Ahh yes, the spring season is upon us!  Oh wait….I’m having surgery again next Monday…time to set sights on that potential trip to the Frontrange for Labor Day…

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12 Responses to News & Notes – 05/13/2008

  1. inkentucky May 13, 2008 at 8:48 am #

    gratz on getting some climbing in Narc!  that’s good news fo sho.  

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  2. The Narc May 13, 2008 at 9:00 am #

    Thanks.  It felt good to see that I still have mad skillz despite 6 weeks of left arm atrophy…

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  3. peter beal May 13, 2008 at 1:35 pm #

    I’ll get to work on the DG translation. I have been down on his rambling of late but this latest missive approaches stream-of consciousness poetry–some of the most interesting work I’ve read in a while

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  4. Joe May 13, 2008 at 4:47 pm #

    It seems to me that Dave Graham has lost his mind entirely. 

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  5. inkentucky May 13, 2008 at 6:15 pm #

    agreed peter.  the latest DG post transcends “pro blogginess” to the point of being incomparable. this is a good thing; i find most pro blogs to be – i dunno – boring.  “went to blah, blah.  SO PSYCHED!!!!  Inspiring route/problem/crag.   Sooooo inspired!  did blah, blah in 5 goes.  i hope i can do the blah blah sit tomorrow.  etc.  etc.”  Dave, however unbounded his posts might seem, is trying to make sense of the “crystalline” moments he encounters (and (re) encounters) on the road.  he is not giving us the blow by blow of his 8a scorecard, but is trying to explain how he makes sense of the ebbs and flows of his stoke.  i find it to be an interesting read, especially when he uses a language I can understand rather than code words known only to his current posse.  

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  6. Tony May 13, 2008 at 9:59 pm #

    Yo narc there’s a guy that looks just like you in the MVM 3 trailer.  Its in the middle right before the guy base jumping.

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  7. The Narc May 14, 2008 at 6:22 am #

    I agree, it is one of DG’s better blogs thus far.  It is like he has honed in his usual rambling style and taken it to a whole new level that is actually quite good.

    Tony – I cant’ watch the video here, am I climbing something hard??

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  8. Tony May 14, 2008 at 7:17 am #

    It doesn’t really say, but it looks like you’re crimping the shit out of something with your left hand.

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  9. Luke May 14, 2008 at 10:55 am #

    I think Dave’s blog give us a chance to take a step onto the Island. As far away as we may be from his state of mind his blogs are doorway to unlimited possibility.

    It helps me understand comments such as “I am the master of my own world” from the Island Video. Dave is a wanderer and visionary and I hope he keeps showing his true colors. Most of all I hope that his finger stops hurting so he can do the sit start of the Island!

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  10. peter beal May 14, 2008 at 1:02 pm #

    I’m glad to see that others agree with my tentative appraisal of Dave’s quasi-poetic effusions. When I’m done wrapping up my grading for the semester, I’ll tackle the topic.

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  11. PAUL May 14, 2008 at 5:56 pm #

    vid of mendax to come on MVM soon!

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  12. chuffer May 15, 2008 at 3:55 am #

    Like whoa … DG’s blog entry was one of the better blog entries ever.
    Wow. With an editor to eliminate some of his vocabulary and grammatical errors, I could see him contributing something like that to Climbing or R & I.

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