News & Notes: Spring Break Edition

News & Notes: Spring Break Edition

A few general bits of climbing news along with several links to check out what people were up to over Spring Break:

  • Early last month, Dean Potter completed a 40 foot roof project he called Zen Garden near Moab, UT. He described it as “the hardest roof crack that I know of”. Besides the power endurance nature of the climbing, Potter commented about the tree situated below the topout adding a bit of a highball feel to the problem. Fast forward to last week when Matt Segal made the trip from Boulder to give it a try, and he repeated Zen Garden in two day’s worth of effort. Check out this photo from Mike Doyle of Matt topping out. Observe the spotter situated in the tree. You can see video of Matt’s send in the MVM premium section.


Photo: Mike Doyle

  • Natasha Barnes recently climbed Ron Kauk’s Camp 4 classic Thriller (V10). This was the problem’s 5th female ascent. You can see footage of the 4th female ascent by Lyn Verinsky from the BetaBase blog below
  • I’ll be the first to admit that crack climbing has always looked to me to be the least appealing form of free climbing. However photos from friends’ trips to Indian Creek combined with these photos posted recently at have me reconsidering this notion.
  • Dave Graham recently repeated Kheops Assis at Fontaniebleau which he figures has to be V14 (and not V15) because he sent it in roughly 4 goes! Hopefully the arrival of the B3Bouldering crew to Font will yield some more picture and stories from the French Forests.
  • This year alone, Daniel Woods has climbed 38 boulder problems V11 and harder in Europe including his most recent V14, Dave Graham’s Confessions.
  • The Mammut Bouldering Championship Gravity Brawl was held last weekend in New Jersey. Winners were Matt Bosley for the men and Paige Claassen for the women. Nice to see the unheralded Jimmy Webb right in the mix placing 4th. Full results here.

Kevin Jorgeson pulling down at the Gravity Brawl – Kevin took 2nd place


Photo: Tim Kemple

  • Ty Landman spent spring break in Southern California and Red Rocks with Harry Robertson and others. Most notable was Ty’s repeat of Matt Birch’s Somewhere in Time at the Tramway in SoCal that was originally graded V14 and proposed to be downgraded to V13 by Daniel Woods. Ty logged it as hard V12. Apparently Matt is on his way back to the Tramway to try and add a sit start, should be sick.

Ty bouldering at Red Rocks


Photo: Colette McInerney

Posted In: Bouldering, Competitions, News, News & Notes
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5 Responses to News & Notes: Spring Break Edition

  1. SG April 3, 2008 at 7:42 pm #

    It’s great to see that Jimmy did well. He’s been heralded on my blog for years now. wordkeep it real Mr. NarcSG

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  2. Climbing Narcissist April 3, 2008 at 9:12 pm #

    Ha – of course!  The mags need to check with you more often and hook up some of the sweet pics you have of him crushing the south…

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  3. SG April 5, 2008 at 7:24 pm #


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  4. cultureshock April 8, 2008 at 4:48 pm #

    Ty just posted a big trip report on Moonclimbing about his recent travels.

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  1. Climbing Narcissist News & Notes: Spring Break Followup | Climbing Narcissist - April 11, 2008

    […] 2008 at 8:08 am by Climbing Narcissist | Post a comment A bit of followup on last week’s Spring Break edition of News & Notes. Here are a few more links for you to check […]

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