Archive | March, 2008

More On Dave MacLeod’s 5.14b Free Solo

Posted March 21, 2008 at 3:45 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Last week, Dave MacLeod made news when he reported that he had free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) at Margalef, Spain.  As Gabor pointed out in the comments at the time, Kairn.com was raising a question about the grade of the route.  They seemed to be downplaying the effort by pointing out that Chris Sharma onsighted […]

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News & Notes – 3/19/2008

News & Notes – 3/19/2008

Posted March 19, 2008 at 12:10 pm · Comments { 18 } ·

Climbing news: Rastaman Vibration Sit pictures, Midnight Express repeated, Steve House in Argentina, Steve Dieckhoff’s passing, Yosemite Bouldering, Ty Landman FAs and Pete Whittaker on the Hard Grit in Britain.

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Truth In Advertising?

Truth In Advertising?

Posted March 18, 2008 at 7:45 am · Comments { 21 } ·

Two recent La Sportiva Solutions ads have featured some fuzzy math when it comes to the grades attributed to the routes in the ads. One being a Timy Fairfield as showing him climbing The Web in Eldorado Canyon and the other being Daniel Woods climbing on Fifty Words For Pump at the Red River Gorge. Weigh in with your opinions on whether or not it is important for companies to be accurate in their advertisements.

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Adam Ondra Climbs 3 5.14s in One Day

Posted March 17, 2008 at 6:45 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

15 year old Adam Ondra continues to amaze. In the course of one day he sent Sanjski Par Extension (5.14d), Človek e jezi se (5.14c) and Popolni mrk (5.14b) all at Slovenia’s Misja Pec. This comes on the heels of a stretch of 2 weeks in February where he sent 7 routes graded 5.14c or […]

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Dean Potter: Learning to Fly?

Dean Potter: Learning to Fly?

Posted March 14, 2008 at 8:00 am · Comments { 20 } ·

Thanks to the reader with the semi-inappropriate screen name that sent me a heads up on this article. Climbing has hit the front pages of The New York Times…sort of.  Controversial climber, slack liner and BASE-jumper Dean Potter has a big article on his latest non-climbing adventure:  a combination of highlining and Base-jumping.  For those […]

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Climb Like A Girl

Climb Like A Girl

Posted March 13, 2008 at 11:23 am · Comments { 8 } ·

This is another guest post from Zonk. If you would like to write a guest post on any climbing related subject or share some pictures from a recent roadtrip, please contact me. I was going to write a diatribe on the bad journalism that one often sees in climbing news. And I thought about writing […]

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Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain

Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain

Posted March 12, 2008 at 1:32 pm · Comments { 23 } ·

Dave MacLeod, best known for his difficult headpoints in Britain, recently free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) in Margalef, Spain.  Unless someone can think of something harder, this is probably the hardest free solo (not a highball boulder) ever done.  I couldn’t find much information on the route as far as how tall it is or […]

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