As usual, I go out of town and a ton of things happen:
- Last week Ty Landman visited Squamish and did what he normally does, which is climb hard problems. He did 1 V13 and a couple of V12’s including one flash. Throw in a handful of V10’s and V11’s and I think most people would be satisfied to call it a week. Well, after a few rest days Ty was back at it in RMNP where he made the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods’ testpiece Jade (V15). You can read about his Squamish trip here and look forward to some upcoming video/blogging about the Jade repeat.
- Climbing.com has a nice photo tribute to Michael Reardon up by Mark Niles.
- Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of a longstanding project near Great Britain’s Glen Nevis that he has called Ring of Steall (5.14c). Famous for the bone jarring falls he took doing the first ascent of the route Rhapsody (E11), MacLeod has lately been turning his attention to difficult sport routes. Here is a picture of him on the crux hold of Ring of Steall that he describes as “so smooth it’s almost like its been buffed and polished–nothing but pure strength will do to hold it”:
- The Momentum Video Magazine is back after some apparent technical problems with 5 new videos. Here is what’s new
- Ty Landman climbing Ode to the Modern Man (V14) at Mt. Evans
- Emily Harrington climbing Gropius (5.13d) at Rifle, CO
- Bouldering in the Caribbean
- Ally Dorrey bouldering on the Millennium Boulder
- A preivew of the upcoming film Sectors
- The first DVD of MomemtumVM material is now available for purchase at Bouldering.com as well. At this point I’m not really sure what incentive there would be for someone to buy this as there isn’t much advertising of it on the actual MomemtumVM site.
- Paul Robinson made a very successful return to bouldering in RMNP this weekend when he climbed 1 V12 and 3 V11’s (2 flash) all on the same day. I feel another Jade repeat coming on…
- And finally, 14 year old Adam Ondra repeated Abyss (5.14d) this past week. You can download a video of Andreas Bindhammer climbing the route here.
Update: Here is another gallery from Damon Corso dedicated to Michael Reardon.