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Video Friday – 3/20/2015

The highest rated videos of the last week…

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Joe’s Valley: Time For A Change

The Access Fund:

As the popularity of Joe’s Valley continues to rise, increased climber traffic is causing some extreme environmental impacts that could threaten access if not addressed.

…snip…

The planning process will continue throughout 2015, with a final plan ready for rollout in early 2016. We ask the climbing community to embrace the changes that are needed at Joe’s Valley.

Anybody who has climbed at Joe’s the past few years can recognize the need for some changes there to create a more sustainable future.  Hopefully with the involvement of the Access Fund and the climbing community we can preserve the awesome resource that is Joe’s Valley.

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Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Open Your Mind Direct

Ashima Shiraishi takes it up a notch in Santa Linya, Spain

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Possible 5.14c FA By Mark Anderson

Mark Anderson1, writing on his blog about the FA of a potential 5.14c in Colorado’s Clear Creek Canyon called Siberian Express:

I’m calling the route Siberian Express.  Based on my maintenance training I can confidently say that I was in top shape when I did it.  The weather likely extended the outcome somewhat, but considering my fitness and the twelve days required, I suspect it’s the hardest route I’ve climbed and warrants a 5.14c rating.  More importantly, it’s a great route.

Mark also did the FA of Double Stout at Clear Creek back in January at a proposed grade of 5.14a.

  1.  Not to be confused with his brother Mike who just recently repeated Mission Impossible
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The Heart-Stopping Climbs Of Alex Honnold

Another big, mainstream news piece on Alex Honnold, this time in a cover story for The New York Times Magazine.  Plenty of great insight into what makes Honnold tick, but I especially enjoyed this bit about Dean Potter:

Even Dean Potter, an openly spiritual man who describes free-soloing as part of a personal art form that includes base jumping, finds Honnold difficult to understand. “Alex is like Spock,” Potter told me. “I freak out at the top of solos and scream — like, super emotional. Then I’m wasted emotionally for months. Alex just does it and walks away and does another.”

Honnold doesn’t like this kind of talk; he insists that he worked hard to develop his self-control, and he grows prickly at any suggestion that he is unlike other people. “Before Dean solos something, he has to, like, slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens,” Honnold joked, as if Potter drew on magical aid to see him through danger. “I don’t want to slaughter a goat and fly with the ravens. I just want to climb.”

Funny response from Potter last night on Instagram:

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Video Friday – 3/13/2015

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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The Dawn Wall Interviews

Cool, interactive piece from Climbing on the Dawn Wall featuring interviews with both Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell.  I particularly liked this quote from Tommy about why he is so relentlessly positive even in the face of a seemingly insurmountable challenge like the Dawn Wall:

It helps to have almost died a few times in your life! [Laughs.] That brings things into perspective! I think the hard things I’ve gone through have made me want to embrace every day to its absolute fullest. Those experiences have helped make me who I am today. But part of that is also being a part of a great community and having my own great role model in my dad. I mean, my dad is absurdly optimistic, and that’s contagious.

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Chris Sharma Talks About His Latest FA

PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat:

It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky.

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