a WordPress rating system
Alex Megos has done the 3rd ascent of Markus Bock’s Corona (5.15a) in Germany’s Frankenjura according to Frankenjura.com (in German). Megos needed about 10 tries to climb the 60 ft. line. This is his 3rd 5.15 after La Rambla in Siurana and his route Classified which is also in the Frankenjura.
Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you’re scoring at home.
I’m starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.
Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:
When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic. Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.
…snip…
Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
Jonathan Siegrist, writing about the end of his time in Las Vegas for the season as well as a brief visit he made to the much-hyped limestone in Ely, NV:
To be downright honest I was underwhelmed – but I also went there with pretty big expectations. There is some potential there, and the Mondo Cave is absolutely enormous, but for now I feel like my time and energy can be better spent elsewhere. The cave has great rock, but it also has a lot of poor rock – logistically it’s a little strange.
The expectations game in climbing can be a bit of a mind-f*ck for all of us, not just professionals. So much of our experience upon first visiting an area is colored by the expectations set prior to that visit by stories and beta gleaned from others as well as a natural excitement I think we all have when seeing a new place. Often times this leads to an underwhelming feeling like the one described by Siegrist, but as with many things in life first impressions are just that.
It’ll be interesting to see what comes of the climbing in Ely over the next decade or two.
Amazing story of recovery by Rannevig Aamodt who was badly injured when she took a ground fall while sport climbing in Turkey about a year ago:
Twelve months have passed since I hit the ground from that 15m free-fall. I broke my pelvis into three pieces and shattered 3 vertebrae and my elbow (compound fracture). I dislocated and fractured both ankles (one was compound), and destroyed a number of bones in my feet and legs.
Aamodt has since returned to climbing at a high level with redpoints up to 5.13.
© 2013 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.
