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Ashima Shiraishi takes it up a notch in Santa Linya, Spain
Mark Anderson1, writing on his blog about the FA of a potential 5.14c in Colorado’s Clear Creek Canyon called Siberian Express:
I’m calling the route Siberian Express. Based on my maintenance training I can confidently say that I was in top shape when I did it. The weather likely extended the outcome somewhat, but considering my fitness and the twelve days required, I suspect it’s the hardest route I’ve climbed and warrants a 5.14c rating. More importantly, it’s a great route.
Mark also did the FA of Double Stout at Clear Creek back in January at a proposed grade of 5.14a.
PlanetMountain caught up with Chris Sharma on the heels of his recent FA of El Bon Combat:
It’s about 25m long, up some really interesting rock, a mix of sandstone and conglomerate that offers some really cool climbing, up this beautiful blue streak and tiny conglomerate pebbles. The moves are unique, completely different from what I was used to at Oliana, Margalef and Santa Linya. Imagine five 8A boulder problems stacked one on top of the other, with a few rests, but nothing great. The moves are very dynamic and yet at the same time extremely subtle, even though they’re right my style I found them to be really tricky.
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