According to SuperTopo and Speedclimb.com Dean Potter and Sean Leary teamed up to set a new speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan. The pair blazed up the wall in at an astonishing 2:36:45, shaving 20 seconds off the previous record set by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama in 2008.

New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary
Posted In: Asides, Traditional Climbing
Tags: Speed Climbing, Speed Record
Climbers: Dean Potter, Sean Leary
Areas: Yosemite
8 Responses to New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary
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News & Notes
Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)
Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well. She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:
5 CommentsThe grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not. But honestly, grades are so unimportant. I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?
Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day
It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control1, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra. Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour. Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.
- Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩
“Fuerza My People”
In a post on Five Ten’s site Dave Graham reflects in his usual style on the last few months of 2011 which culminated with his FA of Memory is Parallax (V14):
3 CommentsIn a day and age where each boulder problem is argued to be less and less significant (its not that hard, its not that cool, its not that tall, its not what I like, no one will go there, blah blah blah) I find it truly important to share when things do matter. When something I have done a boulder is significant. I took a lot from this experience as a person, even though I just climbed a rock, it was a massive milestone, and a true personal accomplishment, but it was because of how it fit into my life, where I was when I did it, and where I came from before I started trying it.






how come this didnt make the front page?
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Several reasons…
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hmm… care to speculate?
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Didn’t mean to be so vague in my first response. Just a lot of things go into what gets posted where I suppose.
I guess the answer I’ll go with is that since they are likely to try again I’ll wait to see where the final number sits at the end of the season before making a huge deal out of it…
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Hey brian, i read this on supertopo:
On or around November 6, Sean Leary and Dean Potter climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2:35.45. They broke the old record of 2:37:05 held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. October 2008 .
So, im wondering where the 20 seconds came from? It looks like a bit more than that to me. Was this another attempt? Or mis-information?
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I believe the correct time is 2:36:45 based on everything I’ve read. The 2:35:45 might be a typo.
They tried again yesterday but the top of the route was wet apparently so no dice.
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Prolly not front page because Speed Climbing is losing its sheen.
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Little bit of that too…
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