According to SuperTopo and Speedclimb.com Dean Potter and Sean Leary teamed up to set a new speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan. The pair blazed up the wall in at an astonishing 2:36:45, shaving 20 seconds off the previous record set by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama in 2008.

New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary
Posted In: Asides, Traditional Climbing
Tags: Speed Climbing, Speed Record
Climbers: Dean Potter, Sean Leary
Areas: Yosemite
8 Responses to New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary
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DK: Here's Ethan's write-up about his attempts: h...
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News & Notes
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Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold spent Saturday romping up big walls in Yosemite. The pair free climbed Freerider on El Cap, the South Face of Mt. Watkins and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome in just over 21 hours. So…how was your weekend??
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Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of those attempts here.
When In Doubt Pack It Out
I don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.






how come this didnt make the front page?
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Several reasons…
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hmm… care to speculate?
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Didn’t mean to be so vague in my first response. Just a lot of things go into what gets posted where I suppose.
I guess the answer I’ll go with is that since they are likely to try again I’ll wait to see where the final number sits at the end of the season before making a huge deal out of it…
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Hey brian, i read this on supertopo:
On or around November 6, Sean Leary and Dean Potter climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2:35.45. They broke the old record of 2:37:05 held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. October 2008 .
So, im wondering where the 20 seconds came from? It looks like a bit more than that to me. Was this another attempt? Or mis-information?
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I believe the correct time is 2:36:45 based on everything I’ve read. The 2:35:45 might be a typo.
They tried again yesterday but the top of the route was wet apparently so no dice.
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Prolly not front page because Speed Climbing is losing its sheen.
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Little bit of that too…
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