2010

23. Feb, 2010 3 Comments

News…

Anthony Chertudi has done the FA of Spirit Walker, a potential V14 that links 2 of his previous FAs at the 27th St. Boulders in Ogden, UT. Click here to see video of Chertudi doing the 2nd ascent of The Masterpiece (V13) in Joe’s Valley.
Sean McColl and Ethan Pringle both nabbed repeats of the Bishop highball Evilution Direct (V11). McColl sent the line ground up while Pringle worked it on a rope first. It’s worth noting that Pringle is still recovering from a debilitating shoulder injury suffered at last year’s ABS Nationals. Seems like things are going pretty well thus far.
Jon Glassberg recently completed his long battle with Dark Waters (V12/13ish) in Clear Creek Canyon, CO. First done way back in 2006 by Daniel Woods, the grade of Dark Waters has always been good fodder for a debate about grades. Check out Glassberg’s blog post for another good addition to the discussion.

Dark Waters (V13) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

…And Notes…

Formerly the Mammut Bouldering Championships, the newly minted Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour kicks off in Maryland on April 23 & 24 at the Earth Treks Roc Comp presented by Mountain Hardwear. Already scheduled to appear at the comp to compete for an $11,000 cash purse are the likes of Lisa Rands, Paul Robinson and some guy named Chris Sharma. Read the tour launch press release here.
Issue 9 of Deadpoint Magazine is now available
There’s been a bit of a shake up at the magazines published by Skram Media. With the departure of Matt Samet from Climbing Magazine, Urban Climber’s Editor in Chief Justin Roth has been promoted to Editorial Director of all 3 Skram Media brands.
Part 1 of Peter Beal’s interview series with former Climbing Magazine Editor in Chief Matt Samet
Urban Climber Magazine interviews 2009 Triple Crown winner Kasia Pietras
To put a cap on last week’s post about the 2010 ABS Nationals is this excellent write up from Rock & Ice and this gallery of images from Steve Woods
Jamie Emerson poses several interesting questions with regards to women and the world of high-end climbing
Episode 6 of The Season is now up on the Arc’Teryx website. This episode offers the first look at climber Matt Maddaloni and his “anti-cam” (shown above).
Pump Factory Road has the transcript from a recent edition of Climb Talk Radio with guidebook authors and first ascenionists Jason Haas and Tom Hanson. Several interesting quotes including this one from Haas:

But, I’ve been climbing a lot in the South Platte lately, and replacing some bolts down there and working on a guidebook for there. And talking to some of the old first ascensionists, they kind of regret their run-out routes, because people aren’t repeating them. Looking back on that, 20/30 years later, [they] really wish that they had done them in a different style. So, I think there’s something to be said for that, of looking back on your routes.

and this one from Hanson about everyone’s Sock Hands’ favorite chosspile, Castlewood Canyon:

Well, I think a lot of the rock has really cleaned up, so there’s not so much loose climbing anymore. I really think of Castlewood as a winter climbing area. It has one of the warmest climates on this side of Shelf Road, which is considered Colorado’s “banana belt.” Castlewood can often be the same way. But, in the summertime you really have to be aware of rattlesnakes. One day in particular, we encountered 28 rattlesnakes in one day. The place can really be infested in the warm summer months

Rock breaks, even on famous V13 super highballs. Be careful out there!
Via TheLowDown is this Kairn.com interview with the Huber Brothers:

Oh and I forgot to mention that this site is 3 years old as of last Saturday. Thanks to everyone for reading!

News & Notes – 12/29/2009

Posted In: American Bouldering Series, Bouldering, Climbing News, Competitions, Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour
Tags: The Season
Climbers: Alex Huber, Anthony Chertudi, Ethan Pringle, Jason Haas, Jon Glassberg, Kasia Pietras, Matt Maddaloni, Sean McColl, Thomas Huber
Areas: 27th St. Boulders, Buttermilks, Clear Creek Canyon

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Climbing Video: 2009 Season In The Frankenjura

Climbing Video: Chris Schulte In Hueco tanks

3 Responses to “News & Notes – 2/23/2010”

eric Reply 23. Feb, 2010 at 7:57 pm

hey narc, do you know anything about momentumvm’s future? It looks like they may be doing something new…

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- Narc Reply 23. Feb, 2010 at 8:18 pm
  
  That’s interesting. I hadn’t noticed that. I’ll see what I can find out.
  
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First V14 For Jesse Bonin In South Africa

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(Another) V14 FA From Daniel Woods At Mt. Evans

Another week, another new V14 from Daniels Woods at Mt. Evans’ newest hotspot Wolverine Land. Woods logged his latest FA on his 8a scorecard as The Exfoliator and noted that this is the first problem he put up of late that took him more than 1 day to send (Exfoliator took 3 days). In the past month he also did the FA of V14s Death Trout and Evil Backwards, both also at Wolverine Land and both already repeated by Dave Graham and Jon Cardwell.

Ethan Pringle Wheel Of Life Photos

Simon Carter has some nice pictures up on his blog of Ethan Pringle’s recent repeat of Wheel Of Life (Vhard/5.long) at the Grampians in Australia. Check them out here.