News & Notes – 2/23/2010

News & Notes – 2/23/2010


  • Anthony Chertudi has done the FA of Spirit Walker, a potential V14 that links 2 of his previous FAs at the 27th St. Boulders in Ogden, UT.  Click here to see video of Chertudi doing the 2nd ascent of The Masterpiece (V13) in Joe’s Valley.
  • Sean McColl and Ethan Pringle both nabbed repeats of the Bishop highball Evilution Direct (V11).  McColl sent the line ground up while Pringle worked it on a rope first.  It’s worth noting that Pringle is still recovering from a debilitating shoulder injury suffered at last year’s ABS Nationals.  Seems like things are going pretty well thus far.
  • Jon Glassberg recently completed his long battle with Dark Waters (V12/13ish) in Clear Creek Canyon, CO.  First done way back in 2006 by Daniel Woods, the grade of Dark Waters has always been good fodder for a debate about grades.  Check out Glassberg’s blog post for another good addition to the discussion.

Dark Waters (V13) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

…And Notes…

But, I’ve been climbing a lot in the South Platte lately, and replacing some bolts down there and working on a guidebook for there.  And talking to some of the old first ascensionists, they kind of regret their run-out routes, because people aren’t repeating them.  Looking back on that, 20/30 years later, [they] really wish that they had done them in a different style.  So, I think there’s something to be said for that, of looking back on your routes.

and this one from Hanson about everyone’s Sock Hands’ favorite chosspile, Castlewood Canyon:

Well, I think a lot of the rock has really cleaned up, so there’s not so much loose climbing anymore.  I really think of Castlewood as a winter climbing area.  It has one of the warmest climates on this side of Shelf Road, which is considered Colorado’s “banana belt.”  Castlewood can often be the same way.  But, in the summertime you really have to be aware of rattlesnakes.  One day in particular, we encountered 28 rattlesnakes in one day.  The place can really be infested in the warm summer months

Oh and I forgot to mention that this site is 3 years old as of last Saturday.  Thanks to everyone for reading!

Posted In: American Bouldering Series, Bouldering, Competitions, News, Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour
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3 Responses to News & Notes – 2/23/2010

  1. eric February 23, 2010 at 7:57 pm #

    hey narc, do you know anything about momentumvm’s future? It looks like they may be doing something new…

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    • Narc February 23, 2010 at 8:18 pm #

      That’s interesting. I hadn’t noticed that. I’ll see what I can find out.

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