I have had a lot of downtime to compile lists of routes and boulder problems I would like to do once I get healthy again. The following is a list of 5 classic problems that are hard, but I think very doable for somewhat above average but not quite mutant climbers (like me). The main criteria was that the problem be in the V9/10 range and it has to be at a relatively well known area. I have also tried 3 of the 5 so that has skewed them towards inclusion as well.
Here is the list:
- Slider (V9) – Horse Pens 40, AL
A classic line of small crimps and positive slopers at Alabama’s Horse Pens 40. Perhaps the one negative about this problem is the ubiquitous large boulder ramping up the right side of the problem that can make for an awkward landing. The few times I tried it I constantly felt like I just wanted to put my leg down on the adjacent boulder although weakness might have contributed a bit.
Photo: B3Bouldering.com
- Soulslinger (V9) – Buttermilks, CA
A classic test of power and balance. Look for more on my attempts on this problem next week.
- The Wind Below (V8) – Joe’s Valley, UT
An instant classic highball put up by Jason Kehl. Tall, black and proud.
Photo: Hayden Miller
- Whispers Of Wisdom (V10+) – Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
Probably a touch on the hard side for this list, Whispers… combines a difficult lower section with a gorgeous 40 ft topout slab high in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Photo: NoRope.com
- Midnight Lightning (V8) – Yosemite National Park, CA
America’s (and maybe the whole World’s) best known boulder problem. I don’t think it is a secret that this problem should be on anybody’s ticklist. Unless you are a beast like John Bachar (pictured below on the problem in the 1980’s) be sure to work on your mantling and head game skills before making the trip.
Photo: Mountainproject.com
I’m sure that there are many other quality problems that could be added to this list so feel free to add them in the comments.
