I have had a lot of downtime to compile lists of routes and boulder problems I would like to do once I get healthy again. The following is a list of 5 classic problems that are hard, but I think very doable for somewhat above average but not quite mutant climbers (like me). The main criteria was that the problem be in the V9/10 range and it has to be at a relatively well known area. I have also tried 3 of the 5 so that has skewed them towards inclusion as well.
Here is the list:
- Slider (V9) – Horse Pens 40, AL
A classic line of small crimps and positive slopers at Alabama’s Horse Pens 40. Perhaps the one negative about this problem is the ubiquitous large boulder ramping up the right side of the problem that can make for an awkward landing. The few times I tried it I constantly felt like I just wanted to put my leg down on the adjacent boulder although weakness might have contributed a bit.
Photo: B3Bouldering.com
- Soulslinger (V9) – Buttermilks, CA
A classic test of power and balance. Look for more on my attempts on this problem next week.
- The Wind Below (V8) – Joe’s Valley, UT
An instant classic highball put up by Jason Kehl. Tall, black and proud.
Photo: Hayden Miller
- Whispers Of Wisdom (V10+) – Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
Probably a touch on the hard side for this list, Whispers… combines a difficult lower section with a gorgeous 40 ft topout slab high in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Photo: NoRope.com
- Midnight Lightning (V8) – Yosemite National Park, CA
America’s (and maybe the whole World’s) best known boulder problem. I don’t think it is a secret that this problem should be on anybody’s ticklist. Unless you are a beast like John Bachar (pictured below on the problem in the 1980’s) be sure to work on your mantling and head game skills before making the trip.
Photo: Mountainproject.com
I’m sure that there are many other quality problems that could be added to this list so feel free to add them in the comments.
Death or Full-Time Tradding? Hey now! You’ve just earned yourself a ticket up a 300ft overhanging finger crack at Lumpy Ridge, Sir! Then we’ll see what you think is “hard-ish.”
Heh heh heh. 😉
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I would have to agree with Midnight Lightning and the Wind Below. Slider is a great problem as well but wouldn’t make the list in my opinion.
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The first 2 are probably the most apt to need replacing with even more classic problems.
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The orb?
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I don’t know what you think could be more “classic”! Soulslinger is just about the most climbed on problem in Bishop–UBER CLASSIC, and Slider is also super sweet, and the only one from the south that made the list. I think geographical diversity should be considered in any Ultimate Classics list…more varied rock.
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The orb? Which one? 😉
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I think that is sort of like asking which route called “The Gift” you should climb.
I agree that regional diversity is key as well. There are a lot of places that I have not been but I think these 5 cover a fairly wide area.
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Unfortunately, and I feel a bit like a dick when I expose this, but the easiest way up The Wind Below is only about V5. There is a hold that is skipped on most of the “V8” ascents, including the Dr.Topo clip, Chad Greedy clip, and Giovanni Traversi clip all on YouTube. I suppose the V5 way could be called “The Swindle Below” or renamed, but using ALL the holds available, it’s only V5. I could beta spray, but i don’t want to really ruin all the fun.
It’s still really f’ing high. And one of the most amazing lines I’ve ever climbed.
JW
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Interesting.
To quote Steven Jeffries in the HP40 dvd: “Bouldering is kind of contrived isn’t it”?
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I suppose that’s true. Plus, being a fellow “upper-midwester,” I Respect The Eliminate. 😉
JW
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ehh…i’d probably just do it the 5 point way and take 8 points for it…
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lol
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I would take The Nothing at Mt. Evans over Soulslinger (choss) and Slider any day. As well, Brown Recluse or possibly Guns and Roses in So Ill are two of the best of that grade.
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I can understand keeping it in the states, but nothing from Hueco? c’mon narc….
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We did the Nothing yesterday and it was better than slider/midnight/soulslinger by a long shot. Soooooo sick.
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You should add The French Maid and/or Requiem For A Tree @ Rumbling Bald to your list.
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My bad peter…never been to Hueco so my knowledge is a bit limited.
The Nothing does look sick…
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Nice list Mr Narc. I’ve heard of The Nothing – my old friend Jeremy Bisher put it up. Anybody know what happened to that guy? I’ve been trying to track him down.
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