2012 Bouldering World Cup – Log-Dragomer

7 Responses to 2012 Bouldering World Cup – Log-Dragomer

1. 

   colin April 26, 2012 at 9:15 am #

   Udo’s world cup reports are great.

   What’s up with making the women dyno-belly flop into the wall?

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     Aaron S April 26, 2012 at 1:48 pm #

     I know, that looks aweful.

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     • 

       Aaron S April 26, 2012 at 2:24 pm #

       Awful. Shit.

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   • 

     Joe April 26, 2012 at 5:43 pm #

     A Russian climber was injured on the problem, and some sort of complaint was filed by several of the coaches to prevent down jumps like that from being in future comps.

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2. 

   Justin.th April 26, 2012 at 5:41 pm #

   *mute*

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3. 

   vicken April 27, 2012 at 2:18 am #

   I’ve always found it surprising that climbers apparently share beta openly and willingly with their competitors before the comp. It seems like climbers would want to keep their good ideas to themselves or even deliberately mislead their competitors if possible. Particularly for the pros who spend their whole year training and have a lot riding on victory.

   Are those beta sharing sessions as open and honest as they look on video or is there actually a fair bit of jockeying and gamesmanship going on? If it is indeed a beta-sharing lovefest what are the motivations for participating? Do comp climbers care deeply about the greater good, willing to spend all winter campusing 1-4-7 only to to give it all up to their rival two minutes before the comp starts? Or maybe selfish climbers who don’t share end up with a bad reputation? Or is the beta-sharing just not that important a factor in the eventual outcome?

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4. 

   Dube April 28, 2012 at 12:28 am #

   Hi,

   I personally think that the beta sharing is genuine.
   It shows a lot of sportsmanship by the athletes. If a climber is certain that his beta is the Best, then don’t share it.

   It’s not just about sharing your beta. With an open mind you can always Learn something from others climbers, and that’s what they’re after. Who doesn’t want to get up the wall quicker ?

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