Lots of great perspective from Italian legend Cristian Brenna in this excellent interview by Andrew Bisharat including this nugget dispelling what I think is a common misconception about many sponsored climbers:
You see a lot of climbers with badges sewn onto their pants, which gives the impression that they are professionals, but they get like five carabiners and some shoes. Yeah, they are sponsored but they don’t get money.
Daniel Woods made an impromptu trip out to Bishop this week with the goal of doing the first repeat of Paul Robinson’s Lucid Dreaming (V15). Spoiler alert: he did not send.
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The story behind the failures are oftentimes more interesting than the stories behind the actual send though, so I enjoyed this piece on the RV Project blog recapping Woods’ efforts.
Dave Graham has completed his long term project at Nicky’s Boulders AKA Elkland in Estes Park, CO just in time to avoid the impending snow storm set to hit Colorado’s Front Range.
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Dubbed The Bridge Of Ashes, this proposed V15 problem is the one Graham mentioned in his post earlier this week. I guess those sit-ups must have really paid off!
Look for video of the send in the near future, but until then enjoy a few pictures over at The Island.
The highest rated videos of the past week
Adam Ondra, writing for Black Diamond about his route Change (5.15c):
I have had many significant changes in my life recently. The end of school turned my life and climbing into completely different perspective. Loads of time, total freedom to travel wherever I want is something I had been dreaming about for years. Finally I have the time to travel abroad along with a drill and create something inspiring enough to put a massive effort into. To find the first proof of this change, instead of heading south as always when we go climbing, we headed north instead. Change is life.
Don’t miss the accompanying video.
Looking back in my archives this morning I noticed a critical lapse in my posts about a certain climber: Japan’s Toru Nakajima. Prior to 2013 began he had already had stunning successes on the gritstone at age 15, repeated a number of hard boulder problems in Colorado, sport climbed up to 5.14+ and repeated Dai Koyamada’s Tokoyo (V15).
2013 is beginning in much the same way for Nakajima as he makes his first visit to the forests of Fontainebleau. Already he’s ticked off problems like The Big Island (V15), Gecko Assis (V14), The Traphouse (V14), The Traphouse Short (V13, flash) and more.
UKC has a good interview with him from late last year which gives more background on this impressive young climber.
Fresh off a side trip to Switzerland that saw him repeat problems like The Dagger (V14), Chris Schulte returned to Fontainebleau where he finished off Nalle Hukkataival’s The Realist (V14) and his long-term project Vincent Pochon’s The Big Island (V15). For someone who enjoys climbing compression problems as much as Schulte does, this is surely a tick for the lifetime list.
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Well done.
Dave Graham gives some background on his latest project in Elkland along with what will surely be the keys to his success:
I started doing push-ups.
And…wait for it…
And also sit-ups.
Well, in that case I’d just call it good and go skiiing or something.
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