“I Really Wanted It To Be Badass”

Posted May 2, 2012 at 4:31 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Monkey Finger was probably my most anticlimactic “big wall” free solo. I really wanted it to be badass – for it to be something to feel proud of – but it just wasn’t.
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It was fun, it was good climbing, it’s a great route.
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But it just didn’t feel rad to me, which makes me worry that I’m getting a bit jaded. Still a good experience to be sure, and the hike off was lonely and beautiful, but just not quite the intensity that I was maybe hoping for.

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Alex Honnold

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Zion

1,013

Posted May 1, 2012 at 8:28 am · Comments { 5 } ·

That’s the number of routes 5.11d or harder that Adam Ondra has logged on his 8a scorecard as of 4/26/2012. That total includes a staggering 358 routes 5.14a or harder with 70 of those coming onsight. As a point of comparison, Dave Graham has 190 5.
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14a or harder routes registered on his scorecard and he’s not exactly a slouch. All this of course before Ondra has even finished High School.

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Adam Ondra

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Martin Keller Finishes 3 Year Project In Switzerland

Posted April 30, 2012 at 7:40 am · Comments { 6 } · Photo: Martin Keller on his new problem in Chironico by Angela Wagner

Martin Keller has finished his long-standing project in Chironico after 3 years and over 100 days of work

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Martin Keller

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Chironico

Video Friday – 4/27/2012

Posted April 27, 2012 at 6:20 am · Comments { 1 } ·

The highest rated videos from the past week

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Nope, 5.14d Still Hasn’t Been Onsighted…But It Won’t Be Long

Posted April 26, 2012 at 5:16 pm · Comments { 8 } ·

There’s been a lot of tongue twisting in the climbing news-osphere about Adam Ondra‘s recent FA of Joe-cita (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain. While he did climb that specific line on his first try, he had previously climbed a portion of the link-up while climbing other routes.
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Granted, he did either onsight or flash the harder parts, but rules are rules. He also came close to onsighting Duele la Realidad 2R (5.14d) but had to settle for a 2nd go send.
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Get your bets in now for when 5.
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14d is going to go down first go…

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