Climbing Areas Archives: Spain

Alizée Dufraisse Climbing La Reina Mora

Posted February 23, 2012 at 5:53 am · Comments { 2 } ·

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Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)

Posted February 21, 2012 at 9:07 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well. She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:

The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not.
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But honestly, grades are so unimportant.
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I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?
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∞ · Comments { 13 } · Climbers { 1 }

Nina Caprez

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Oliana

Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Posted February 17, 2012 at 2:06 pm · Comments { 11 } · Photo: Daila Ojeda on Mind Control by Keith Ladzinski

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control¹, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra. Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.
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Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.

Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩

∞ · Comments { 11 } · Climbers { 2 }