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The summer of 2014 continues to be dominated by headlines about women climbers pushing the limits of what has been done before, and last week that trend continued with hard sends by Angie Payne and Alex Puccio in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park.
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:
The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…
It was a busy week for women repeating V13s as Brooke Raboutou, Shauna Coxsey and Alex Puccio all added a v13 (or two) to their ticklists
Since wrapping up her season on the World Cup Circuit three weeks ago in Vail, Alex Puccio has been keeping busy out on the real rocks around Colorado culminating with her notching her first V13
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