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The Dawn Wall: Episode 1
→ The Nose In A Day And Freerider In 3∞
Hazel Findlay, after doing her third free route on El Cap:
Having freed three lines on El Cap now, with Freerider supposedly the easiest, I have to say that there really isn’t an easy way of freeing El Cap, and it’s a real achievement to even get up it at all.
In addition to her recent ascent of Freerider, Findlay has also freed the PreMuir and Golden Gate over the past few seasons.
Chris Sharma: Breath Series // Episode 3
7a+ to 8a+ Bouldering In Bishop | Lost In North America, Ep. 5
Yanks Crank in Yosemite Valley, Bouldering’s Birthplace | Lost in North America, Ep. 4
→ Seek And You Shall Find∞
Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne:
The exposure was surreal and it was starting to give me the creeps. I thought to myself that all I had to do was mantle up, make a couple of moves and get to the next bolt. Except the holds were dirty and covered in lichen and every time I pulled up with a heel hook into the mantle my hands would slip a little and every time I would climb back down and way back left to the last bolt 15 feet behind me. I did this about 5 times, each time looking back at my 9.
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1 rope draped across sharp knobs, wondering if the sideways fall into the unknown below the roof would cut my rope. Eventually I returned to the belay, leaving behind two lowerout biners and we rapped to the ground. John Bachar Lives played over and over in my head as we walked down the trail and I was more intrigued than ever.
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This piece really took me back to my trip to Tuolumne and made me realize that no matter your skill level anyone can have that quintessential Tuolumne experience whether it’s on a 5.5 or on a 5.13. It seemed fitting to finally post this on the day the national parks re-open.
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→ Climbing Beyond Boehner’s Reach∞
Freddie Wilkinson takes to the Op-Ed section of The New York Times to talk about how the government shutdown has affected the climbing scene in Yosemite:
The most anticipated event of this climbing season was to be an effort by Tommy Caldwell of Colorado to lead a team of climbers to become the first to free climb the Dawn Wall — that is, climbing by hand and foot without using gear to make upward progress — a feat Mr. Caldwell has been pursuing for the last seven years.
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Chris Sharma, a reigning icon of the action-sports world, was to join the climber Kevin Jorgeson in the effort, which they ended up postponing.
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“It’s like Michael Phelps showing up at the Olympics, only to find the pool has been drained,” said Andrew Bisharat, an editor for Rock and Ice Magazine.
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