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Adam Ondra Interview In Copenhagen
→ Ondra, Markovic Win Arco Rock Legends 2013∞
Congrats to Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic who were awarded the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award at this past weekend’s Arco Rock Legends ceremony in Arco, Italy:
He is the climber that everyone wants to be. One of the strongest, for many perhaps even the strongest ever in the history of sport climbing. She is the competition athlete who has improved most in recent years. As strong in Lead as in Bouldering, she represents the evolution of the sport rock climbing.
There was some actual climbing in Arco this past weekend as well which saw Alex Pucco and Rustam Gelmanov win the bouldering competitiong and Sean McColl and Dinara Fakhritdinova win the Duel. More details on that here.
→ Chris Sharma Conquers La Dura Dura∞
Interesting piece by Andrew Bisharat for Prana looking at Chris Sharma’s journey to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c):
Some five years ago, La Dura Dura didn’t exist other than as a simple, vague desire within Sharma to progress as a climber. In 2008, at 27 years old, Sharma had just sent Jumbo Love, thereby establishing the first rock climb rated 5.15b. This was actually the second time Sharma had advanced the world standard; in 2001, he climbed Realization, the first 5.15a. By many measures, Sharma had proven himself to be the best climber of his generation. It was something he had been told all his adult life, too—flattering hype that always made him uncomfortable, if not wary.
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But it wasn’t until he completed Jumbo Love that he realized one of the reasons why.
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Sharma looked within and realized he’d been climbing for 15 years and, thus far, he hadn’t really had to try very hard to be the best.
→ Footage Of Adam Ondra’s FA Of Move∞
Do not adjust your computer. This is just how fast Adam Ondra climbs these days.
On a related note: could anyone else make something like the bottom part of Move look so easy yet have so much credibility when calling it hard 5.
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14?
Adam Ondra – Move (5.15b/c) – First Ascent
Adam Ondra Working Move (5.15b/c)
→ Yet Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra∞
Once again Adam Ondra has established a route in the mid-5.15 range in the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway, this time with the route he’s calling Move. Here’s how he describes the experience on his 8a scorecard:
9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE
This is the 3rd 5.15b or harder Ondra has established in Norway in the past year, and he’s now done 26 5.15’s which is…well…a world record lot.
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