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Cult Followings Not Paying Off Like They Used To, Alpinist Magazine Sold For $71K

Posted January 7, 2009 at 11:03 am · Comments { 9 } ·

Details on the buyer who paid $71,000 for the assets of Alpinist Magazine are starting to emerge.

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Climbing Video: Brad Weaver Sending “Fifty Words For Pump Right” (5.14c)

Posted January 7, 2009 at 8:57 am · Comments { 22 } · Photo: Nathan Drolet

Anytime there is an up and coming climber from the midwest, you KNOW I am going to pimp them hard. Brad Weaver is a climber from Bloomington, IL that had a great 2008. Most notably he repeated Fifty Words For Pump Right (5.14c) and he did the 2nd ascent of Joe Kinder’s Southern Smoke (5.14c), both routes at Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Here is some video of Weaver’s send of Fifty Words (in the summer no less!)

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Brad Weaver

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Red River Gorge

HP40 New Years Washout

Posted January 5, 2009 at 8:22 am · Comments { 12 } ·

Our trip to HP40 in Alabama wasn’t a complete wash, but as far as climbing was concerned it sure felt like it. Before we left I didn’t feel all that prepared, and it showed once we started climbing on the beautiful first day of 2009. Last week I posted a short list of problems I wanted to send, but a combination of lack of enthusiam, lack of strength and lack of skin combined to prevent me from sending any of the problems

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Horse Pens 40

Video: Adam Ondra Sending “Open Air” 9a+/5.15a

Posted December 30, 2008 at 9:26 am · Comments { 3 } · Photo: Vojtech Vrzba

Video footage of Adam Ondra’s recent repeat of Alex Huber’s “Open Air” a previously unrepeated 5.15a sport route in Austria.

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Adam Ondra

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Schleier Wasserfall

Video: Paul Robinson Sending The Swarm (V14)

Posted December 24, 2008 at 6:30 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Here is one last video from the footage that Paul Robinson was kind enough to send along. This time up he is depicted repeating The Swarm, an “easy” V14 at the Buttermilks outside of Bishop, CA. Along with Hueco’s Esperanza (V14), The Swarm is the most repeated V14 in the U.S. Somewhat notable is that […]

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Paul Robinson

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Bishop, Buttermilks

Chris Sharma Esperanza (V14) Video On MVM

Posted December 23, 2008 at 6:46 am · Comments { 20 } ·

The Momentum Video Magazine has posted a clip from Best Of The West of Chris Sharma repeating Fred Nicole’s Hueco Tanks testpiece Esperanza (V14). Beyond the climbing being impressive to watch, the clip sparked a couple of questions in my mind.

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