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The Scene Excerpt: Chris Sharma

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Trailer: The Season 2

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5.14d In Oliana For Chris Sharma

Daila Ojeda mentions on her Spanish blog that before coming to the U.S. for the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, UT and his annual Yo Basecamp in Bishop, CA boyfriend Chris Sharma made quick work of Duele la Realidad (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain.

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Two Weeks Off Spent Sport Climbing In Kalymnos

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Potential 5.14d FA In Rifle By Matty Hong

Rock & Ice has the details on Matty Hong doing the FA of a route Joe Kinder bolted and left as an open project last summer in Rifle, CO called Bad Girls Club:

What makes Bad Girls Club difficult is that it is stacked with difficult boulder problems, culminating with a V-double-digit boulder problem right at the lip of the 100-foot cave. Whether the mythic 5.14d grade will hold remains to be seen.

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5.14d Birthday Present For Charlotte Durif

Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France’s Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France’s Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website.  First done in 2010 by Adam Ondra, PPP is Durif’s first 5.14d making her likely only the second woman, after Josune Bereziartu, to ever climb a pitch given that grade.  Durif had previously done a couple of 5.
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14c’s including these two she did the FA of back in 2009.

Update:  Much has been made in a thread on 8a.nu about the fact that almost all European news outlets have not reported this news.  Cedric from the French site Kairn.com explains the reasoning behind this action in a comment posted below:

As we discovered that Charlotte is lying a lot about her claims, we decided with other website part of CWN (Climbing Web Network) such as UKClimbing, Belclimb, Klettern…) not to post anymore about her claims if we have no independent witness.
Several elements makes us think that again she did not do what she claims.
Even Beal and Petzl, her sponsors, did not post about her 8c onsight.
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She is strong, very strong. But she (and her father most of all) is lying too much.

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News & Notes – 8/17/2011

News & Notes – 8/17/2011

News & Notes from Jonathan Siegrist, 5.14d and V14 in a week by Jorg Verhoeven, a hard mult-pitch gets repeated and MUCH more…

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