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→ First 5.14d In Australia By Alex Megos∞

Posted August 19, 2013 at 10:26 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great report with pictures from Simon Carter detailing how visiting climber Alex Megos ushered in Australia’s first 5.14d with his FA of Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mountains:

After taking the big whipper from the crux six or seven times Alex became frustrated. He lowered to the ground, pulled the rope, re-tied and immediately started climbing again.
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Somehow this tactic worked because this time he got through the crux — and it was a mighty fight to the end!
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Watch 2013 IFSC Youth World Championships Live 8/16-19

Posted August 16, 2013 at 10:45 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Coverage starts Friday morning at 9:20 PDT.

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Wild Wall

Posted August 14, 2013 at 9:36 am · Comments { 4 } ·
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→ FFA Of Bellavista (5.14b) By Sasha DiGiuilian∞

Posted August 13, 2013 at 12:56 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

According to this post on her Instagram account, Sasaha DiGiulian has teamed up with Edu Marin to repeat Alex Huber’s multi-pitch route Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I’m down and happy to report the First Female #Ascent of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!

Bellavista, which was first done in 2001, features several 5.12 pitches and one pitch of 5.14b and has seen relatively few repeats over the years.
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Athlete Spotlight – Jonathan Siegrist

Posted August 13, 2013 at 9:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Paige Claassen – Boven, South Africa – Rolihlahla (32, 5.13d)

Posted August 12, 2013 at 9:40 am · Comments { 3 } ·
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→ Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra∞

Posted August 7, 2013 at 9:49 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra continues to use the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway as his personal 5.15 playground, this time with the FA of Iron Curtain (5.15b).  Lest you think 5.15b has become “easy” for him, he assures PlanetMountain that this is not the case:

9b (5.15b) standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort.

According to the same article, Ondra has multiple 5.15+ projects lined up and ready including one that is almost 200 feet long!

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