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New V14 In The Buttermilks From Shawn Diamond

Posted May 11, 2009 at 6:54 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Shawn Diamond linked up the problems Direction (V13) and Magnetic North (V8/9) on the Grandma Peabody boulder at the Buttermilks to create Direct North.  Diamond has proposed a grade of V14 for this new line.
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Video Of Nalle Hukkataival’s FA Of ‘The Machinist’ (V13) Now Online

Video Of Nalle Hukkataival’s FA Of ‘The Machinist’ (V13) Now Online

Posted May 8, 2009 at 3:31 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

In Yosemite last summer and again this spring in Rocktown I ran into aspiring climbing filmmaker Brant Hawkins. On both occasions he showed me some cool videos he made, and all that was left was for him to find a way to share his videos with the masses. It looks like the wait is over and the website for Projekt Media is now live.

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Climbing Video: Brian Kim Ground Up On Cybernetic Wall (5.13d)

Climbing Video: Brian Kim Ground Up On Cybernetic Wall (5.13d)

Posted May 8, 2009 at 7:10 am · Comments { 12 } ·

Via the guys at BassForYourFace comes this video of Brian Kim sending Cybernetic Wall (5.13d) at the Gunks, NY ground up on natural gear.

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Devil’s Lake Bouldering: Alpine Club and Beautiful Soup

Devil’s Lake Bouldering: Alpine Club and Beautiful Soup

Posted May 5, 2009 at 7:19 am · Comments { 29 } ·

After 6 weeks of sitting inside watching the spring season pass by while waiting for my knee to feel better, I was abnormally psyched to meet up with Nic (of Five Ten fame), Steve and Remo for a day of bouldering at Devil’s Lake. Of course, I didn’t actually climb anything as I’m still trying to be “patient”, but it was fun nonetheless.

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Will Stanhope Does 2nd All Gear Ascent Of East Face Of Monkey Face

Will Stanhope Does 2nd All Gear Ascent Of East Face Of Monkey Face

Posted May 5, 2009 at 5:17 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Via Jamie Chong’s blog comes word that Canadian Will Stanhope has done the 2nd all gear ascent of the iconic East Face (5.13d) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rocks, OR.

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Two New V13s In Colorado From Chris Schulte

Two New V13s In Colorado From Chris Schulte

Posted May 4, 2009 at 6:58 am · Comments { 11 } ·

Back in Colorado after a successful trip to Europe that saw him climb his first V14s, Chris Schulte has once again turned his attention to climbing new problems

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Joe Kinder Opens New 5.14d In Utah

Joe Kinder Opens New 5.14d In Utah

Posted April 30, 2009 at 8:58 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Well, that didn’t take long.  Yesterday I mentioned that Joe Kinder was working on a link up in Southern Utah that could be one of the harder routes in America.  Sure enough, later in the day yesterday he pulled out the send to create The Re-Up (5.14d).  The Re-Up is actually a link up of […]

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