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2013 Bouldering World Cup Highlights – Kitzbühel

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Ammagamma Sessions

Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees, is back in the climbing game after a long break.  This also means he’s back in the blogging game, and he just got done writing a pretty fascinating series of blog posts about his efforts to repeat the well-known Grampians V13, Ammagamma.

The catch?  Bradbury, who had previously climbed V13 some years back, was coming off a long break from climbing and had only climbed as hard as V7 before starting to project Ammagamma.
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 I won’t spoil the end except to share this bit from his unsuccessful 4th session on the problem.  Sound like anything you might do?

Here I was on my honeymoon and I was 100% focused on a boulder problem. I told Emily that I didn’t think I could leave without climbing Ammagamma. I told her I’d change my flight to NZ so that I could stay in the Grampians another week to keep on trying.
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What was I really saying? She told me that I just needed 1 good go, that I was going to do it this session.

How could I reconcile my own selfish pursuit with the fact that I was here with my wife? I didn’t know if I really would stay. I’d said it to gauge a reaction… but just saying it had made me ask bigger and deeper questions.

Check out the 5 part series by clicking the links below:

 Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5

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Two Girls, One Pup

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Daniel Woods Repeating Bridge Of Ashes (V15)

It’s going to take a while for me to get that song out of my head.

Also, some words from Woods on the process of sending this problem in one day can be read here:

This was the first time I had done a boulder of this difficulty in a session. It would not have been possible without the help of Dave. He cleaned this line, battled with it, and overcame. Dave inspires me in a way that he can turn nothing into something majestic. He is a wizard and never fails to amaze.
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Indeed.

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Unfinished Business

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:

When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic.  Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.

…snip…

Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
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Any takers?

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Washington Bouldering – Jon Glassberg

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Joe’s Valley Damn Boulders: A New Zone

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