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Boulder World Cup 2014 – Final Report

Posted July 29, 2014 at 8:13 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ Tamás Zupán’s Path To V15∞

Posted July 28, 2014 at 8:23 am · Comments { 7 } ·

Nice piece on OnBouldering.com about Tamás Zupán’s recent repeat of Daniel Woods’ In Search Of Time Lost (V15):

Back in Budapest, Tamás developed a special training regime, tailored to the particular style of the problem. “I did a lot of planking and trained 5 times a week including campus board, system board and climbing on a 60 degree wall”.

He followed this plan for one and a half years and, just in case some extra pulling strength was needed, he did 50 1 arm pull ups with each arm every single day.
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Some days with 4,5 kilos to add resistance.

Who hasn’t done 50 1 arm pull ups every day ever cumulatively in a lifetime?

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Tamás Zupán

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Magic Wood

Sparkshop 2014 Reel

Posted July 27, 2014 at 2:00 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

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Hoya Moros 2014

Posted July 24, 2014 at 8:42 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ First Ascents For Paul Robinson In South Africa∞

Posted July 22, 2014 at 8:20 am · Comments { 0 } ·

DPM caught up with Paul Robinson who spent the past couple of months exploring a newer area in South Africa called Three Corners:

On my fourth trip [to South Africa], I was told vaguely about some boulders in the middle Cederberg and wanted to go see what I could find. I drove out there with the “Chasing Winter” crew (Carlo Traversi, Ashima Shiraishi) and we spent a few days hiking and exploring the zone.
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I didn’t really have the eye then to see the potential that I did this past trip. I am so glad I gave the area another chance because in 2012 when I went, I wasn’t able to see the massive potential of the area.
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The potential he found included the problem pictured below called In the Depths of Solitude which could be as hard as V15. In addition, Robinson opened a slew of other double digit problem including three V13s and a good number of more moderate problems as well.
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