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→ DiGiulian’s Rolihlahla Repeated By Paige Claassen Among Others∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 10:06 am · Comments { 3 } ·

It’s been a busy week for Sasha DiGiuliuan’s new route Rolihlahla at South Africa’s Waterval Boven, as it has seen repeats from Arjan de Kock, Andrew Pedley and now Paige Claassen. Claassen suggests a possible grade of 5.13d¹ while offering this comment about the route:

Regardless of the grade, Rolihlahla is an absolutely gorgeous line and I’m so glad that Sasha caught the fire to establish the route so the rest of us could follow suit! I know that many locals, especially women, have been inspired by new ascents in the region.
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I don’t get to climb with Sasha often, but it’s always incredibly motivating to pull down with strong ladies who put their heart into every attempt and contribute to the group’s motivation at the cliff.
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Thanks to Andrew Pedley for bolting another stellar line, and to Sasha for chalking up all those small grips!

DiGiulian had suggested 5.14b ↩

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Andrew Pedley, Arjan de Kock, Paige Claassen

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Waterval Boven

→ Jonathan Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d)∞

Posted July 16, 2013 at 9:53 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist, writing on his blog about his 4th ascent of BJ Tilden’s finger tendon nightmare Moonshine (5.14d) at the Wild Iris:

In the end it was this rad community that got me through it. My homie Colby came through with the necessary moonshine, replenishing the resident jar that lives beneath the route, BJ was there to bless me with his belay, and a crowd of good friends – old and new – were at the crag to cheer me on.
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I’m glad that this tiny little sport route toyed with my emotions a little – I got a condensed version of what BJ experienced over the years – and it made topping out the Erratic that much sweeter.
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∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 1 }

Jonathan Siegrist

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Wild Iris

→ Interview With Adam Ondra After His 5.14d Onsight∞

Posted July 11, 2013 at 9:54 am · Comments { 3 } ·

I don’t know how you warm up for your 5.14d onsights, but this is what Adam Ondra did:

Well, I tried a route which I thought was 8a and fell off at about half-height. But I wasn’t that worried because I then found out that it wasn’t even in the guidebook. I then ran around and flapped my arms as best I could and then set off.

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Adam Ondra

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Rawyl

Sasha DiGiulian Nabs Her Own Beautiful 5.14 FA In South Africa

Posted July 10, 2013 at 9:24 am · Comments { 5 } · Photo: Sasha DiGiulian on her FA in South Africa by Keith Ladzinski

Much like Paige Claassen, Sasha DiGiulian is down in South Africa where she to has completed the first ascent of an amazing looking project, this one coming at the crag at Waterfall Boven

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Sasha DiGiulian

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Waterval Boven

→ 5.14d Onsight By Adam Ondra∞

Posted July 9, 2013 at 8:58 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Kairn.com reports in French that Adam Ondra has done his long-awaited 5.14d onsight with his first go send of La cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland. Long expected to be the first to onsight 5.14d, Ondra was just beaten out by Alex Megos who onsighted Estado critico (5.14d) in Siurana, Spain earlier this year. Prior to this, Ondra had onsighted some 15 5.14cs¹ in addition to 75 5.14a or b onsights so to say he has been building toward this goal would be an understatement.
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Including two in the Red River Gorge that were considered by some to be 5.14d although ultimately they likely never were ↩

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Adam Ondra

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Rawyl

→ Alex Megos Repeats Wheel Of Life∞

Posted July 9, 2013 at 8:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In what should be surprising news to no one at this point, Alex Megos has made quick work of Wheel Of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians:

Though he hasn’t been here for long Megos hasn’t wasted any time, racking up what is almost certainly (and by a long way) the fastest ascent of the Wheel of Life (35/36) in the world-famous Hollow Mountain Cave.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 }