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More On Dave MacLeod’s 5.14b Free Solo

Posted March 21, 2008 at 3:45 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Last week, Dave MacLeod made news when he reported that he had free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) at Margalef, Spain.  As Gabor pointed out in the comments at the time, Kairn.com was raising a question about the grade of the route.  They seemed to be downplaying the effort by pointing out that Chris Sharma onsighted […]

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News & Notes – 3/19/2008

News & Notes – 3/19/2008

Posted March 19, 2008 at 12:10 pm · Comments { 18 } ·

Climbing news: Rastaman Vibration Sit pictures, Midnight Express repeated, Steve House in Argentina, Steve Dieckhoff’s passing, Yosemite Bouldering, Ty Landman FAs and Pete Whittaker on the Hard Grit in Britain.

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Adam Ondra Climbs 3 5.14s in One Day

Posted March 17, 2008 at 6:45 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

15 year old Adam Ondra continues to amaze. In the course of one day he sent Sanjski Par Extension (5.14d), Človek e jezi se (5.14c) and Popolni mrk (5.14b) all at Slovenia’s Misja Pec. This comes on the heels of a stretch of 2 weeks in February where he sent 7 routes graded 5.14c or […]

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Dean Potter: Learning to Fly?

Dean Potter: Learning to Fly?

Posted March 14, 2008 at 8:00 am · Comments { 20 } ·

Thanks to the reader with the semi-inappropriate screen name that sent me a heads up on this article. Climbing has hit the front pages of The New York Times…sort of.  Controversial climber, slack liner and BASE-jumper Dean Potter has a big article on his latest non-climbing adventure:  a combination of highlining and Base-jumping.  For those […]

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Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain

Dave MacLeod Free Solos 5.14b in Spain

Posted March 12, 2008 at 1:32 pm · Comments { 23 } ·

Dave MacLeod, best known for his difficult headpoints in Britain, recently free soloed Darwin Dixit (5.14b) in Margalef, Spain.  Unless someone can think of something harder, this is probably the hardest free solo (not a highball boulder) ever done.  I couldn’t find much information on the route as far as how tall it is or […]

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News & Notes – 3/10/2008

News & Notes – 3/10/2008

Posted March 10, 2008 at 1:45 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

Just an update on Beth Rodden’s new 5.14 trad route Meltdown. Big Up Productions was there filming her work on the route for the upcoming Dosage 5. Big Up shares their first hand takes on what went down including nuggets like, “After about 10 sessions of working it on top-rope Tommy was never able to […]

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Beth Rodden Climbs 5.14 Crack In Yosemite

Beth Rodden Climbs 5.14 Crack In Yosemite

Posted March 7, 2008 at 12:28 pm · Comments { 15 } ·

I know this has been reported elsewhere, but for those that haven’t seen it yet Beth Rodden (pictured at right on her FA of The Optimists 5.14b at Smith Rocks, OR) has done the first ascent of a possible mid 5.14 crack climb in Yosemite, CA. The 70 foot crack went down after 4 months […]

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