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R.I.P. Flyin’ Brian McCray

Nice post by Mikey at DPM about the sad passing of legendary route developer Flyin’ Brian McCray from an apparent suicide:

Brian’s impact on New River Gorge climbing cannot be overstated. He moved to Fayetteville, West Virginia in the mid-90s, quickly progressed to climbing the hardest routes, and then set about equipping the routes of the Cirque with his then girlfriend Roxanna Brock. In just more than a year, Brian established over 20 climbs on the intimidating blank canvas including Proper Soul, the region’s first 5.14a. And then he was gone—off to the West to claim speed records on El Cap big walls, first ascents on the big walls of Zion, alpine walls in Alaska, hundreds of sport routes, and many more adventures.>

My most vivid memory of McCray’s routes was down in the Red River Gorge a few years back when we visited a recently rediscovered crag that he had apparently developed in the 90’s before moving on to other things.  Most of the routes had been rebolted, but above the anchors of one of the routes remained two rusty anchors from a different day and time.  In between burns on what was an incredible route I distinctly remember staring at those bolts trying to put myself in the shoes of McCray as he was bolting this crag some 15-20 years prior.

What was it like to come across this wall when it was still a blank slate?  What were those days spent bolting like?  The rusted anchors I saw were maybe 10 feet above the present day anchors, could he have actually climbed the blank section between the two?  Could he have ever imagined that people would think that some of the routes he bolted there were runout?  The answers are, of course, not that important, but I’m guessing that McCray’s work has been felt in similar ways by many climbers over the years.

My condolences to Brian’s family and friends.

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Wurm, Ondra Win 2014 Bouldering World Championships

After a thrilling battle Saturday night that saw both the men’s and the women’s competition come down to the final attempts by the final climbers, Adam Ondra and Juliane Wurm emerged as the 2014 Bouldering World Champions.

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2014 Bouldering World Championships This Weekend In Munich

This weekend is the highly anticipated 2014 Bouldering World Championships in Munich, Germany.  Several Americans will be joining a massive field full of the best male and female competition climbers from over 40 countries, all looking to take the coveted title of World Champion.  One notable absence from the field will be Austrian legend Anna […]

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Outdoor Retailer Summer 2014 Climbing Report

Nice recap by Splitter Choss of the recently completed 2014 Outdoor Retailer Summer Trade Show.  I was actually able to make a brief stop at the show in between Psicocomp duties, but I did not get a chance to visit many of the climbing-related booths in any detail.
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5.14a Onsight By Kai Lightner

After getting knocked out of Friday night’s Psicocomp in the first round by Jimmy Webb, Kai Lightner made his way to nearby Maple Canyon on Saturday where he had a big day according to this post on his Instagram feed onsighting Pipe Dream (5.14a) and redpointing Divine Fury (5.14b).

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Meagan Martin Athlete Spotlight

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Buhrfeind, McColl Win 2014 Psicocomp

Claire Buhrfeind and Sean McColl emerge victorious at the 2014 Psicocomp

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