After getting a lot of love from first ascensionist Matty Hong and second ascensionist Jonathan Siegrist, it’s only fitting that only a short time after returning to the States from South Africa Joe Kinder was able to repeat Bad Girls Club (5.14d), a route he had bolted in Rifle, CO.
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Dave Graham, who is back in the U.S. after returning from Australia, came close to sending as well. Sendtember rolls on…
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Joe Kinder
PlanetMountain Interviews Petit About Black Bean Ascent
PlanetMountain interviews Arnaud Petit about his ascent of the 5.13d sport route Black Bean on trad gear, touching on his motivations for doing so and whether or not he considered removing the bolts:
No, I never considered this as Black Bean is a great sport route, established by Bruno Clément, really world-class and a true classic. Ceüse is a sport crag, the rock is not really suited to gear placements so there is no reason to remove the bolts. Even had I worked the route not using the bolts but instead by using a static fixed from above, I would not have had this idea. I am 40 now and I don’t want to teach others how the things should be through this types of actions, even if I understand people removing bolts in some crack areas. As I see it, I am very very happy that we can climb this route playing two different games, without controversies.
Well said.
El Cap Report Returns…Again
After a brief retirement, the El Cap Report is back for the fall season!
Yo… Yep the Report is back!!! Friends of YOSAR have agreed to let me use their internet connection, which should make things much better for doing the Report.
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Donate something to their site, not just for me, but for all the great work they do in Yosemite!
Multiple Hard Sends By Ashima Shiraishi In Kentucky
27Crags interviews Ashima Shiraishi after her first trip to Kentucky’s Red River Gorge which yielded repeats of multiple 5.
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13s including the 5.13d Swingline. Already somewhat well-known for bouldering harder than her age, this 10 year-old is about to get a lot more well-known when the 2011 Reel Rock Film tour kicks off this Thursday.
The Other Side Of Life As Alex Honnold
Adventure Journal catches up with Alex Honnold to discuss the fact that although he may be one of the world’s best climbers, his lifestyle and diet are not exactly glamorous:
I have a 2002 Ford Econoline van that I live out of. And no, it’s not glamorous at all. Sorry, but camping is not cool when you’re a homeless person. When you’re doing it all year, well it’s just not romantic. There’s a reason people live in cities. Do you know how I often I say to myself, “I could really use a shower!”?
Nick Duttle Repeats Alpine 5.14
DPM reports on Nick Duttle doing the 4th ascent of Tommy Caldwell’s Sarchasm (5.14) located high in RMNP, CO on the Ship’s Prow near Longs Peak:
After breaking a few holds during his efforts at what he calls, “the first fat guy ascent,” Nick felt the line warranted the 5.14b grade. He also noted that it took him longer to figure out the crux on Sarchasm than it did for him to figure out some V14 boulder problems.
Hard New Route At “Next Level Something” Crag By Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven blogs about his recent efforts in the amazing cave in Flatanger, Norway that yielded a potential 5.
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14d called Nordic Flower with room for much, much more:
I must say, I never seen anything like this place before. The Americans would come up with a ‘Next Level something’, but all I can think of is the next level of astonishment…
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Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
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- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] the world’s first consensus 5.15b in 2...
- Climbing Controversy: Behind the Decades-Long Conflict Roiling the Sport’s Elite - Swiss Cycles: […] that they didn’t see repeats for decad...
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Miller, Lightner Win 2015 SCS Nationals April 1, 2015
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