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Successful Trip To The Red River Gorge For Jorg Verhoeven

Posted November 28, 2011 at 1:00 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Jorg Verhoeven reports on his blog that he had a pretty successful trip to the Red River Gorge with repeats of Pure Imagination (5.14d), Fifty Words For Pump (5.14c) and Southern Smoke (5.14c) among the routes on his ticklist.
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Check out a video of the Pure Imagination send here.

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Jorg Verhoeven

· Areas { 1 }

Red River Gorge

Caldwell’s Dawn Wall Push Over…For Now

Posted November 14, 2011 at 2:16 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

In an update on his Facebook page yesterday Tommy Caldwell indicated that he’s given up the hope of completing his Dawn Wall project in a single push, instead opting to go down to the ground to recuperate before returning to his current highpoint to forge higher. After over two weeks on the wall he was able to match his highpoint of pitch 12 from last year but was unable to send pitch 13 despite a prolonged battle.

Update: Caldwell returned for a brief attempt on Pitch 13 but decided to pack up and head home for the season:

In so many ways, free-climbing El Cap seems absurd and contrived. But it drives me in a way that I love, satisfying a deep-rooted curiosity. A need to explore not only what I see, but who I am.
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I choose to immerse myself in this project again and again because it stretches my imagination and reminds me that I am capable of much more that I am usually aware of.
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It would be empty without the allure of success. But it doesn’t always end that way.
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At least for now.

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No Climbers associated with this post

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Yosemite

Chelsea Rude Reports On 5.14a Ascent In Rodellar

Posted November 10, 2011 at 12:28 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

On her new blog Chelsea Rude has a nice report from her recent trip to Rodellar, Spain where she did her first 5.14 and came close to sending a 2nd before having to return home.
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Chelsea Rude

· Areas { 1 }

Rodellar

Southern Smoke (5.14c) Repeated By Dylan Barks

Posted November 9, 2011 at 9:00 am · Comments { 2 } ·

According to his 8a scorecard 16-year old Dylan Barks from Ann Arbor, MI has done Joe Kinder’s Southern Smoke (5.14c) in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. This was Barks’ second route 5.
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14 or harder and prior to 2011 his hardest redpoint was 5.13b.

∞ · Comments { 2 } · Climbers { 1 }

Dylan Barks

· Areas { 1 }

Red River Gorge

“I’m An Equal Opportunity Sheriff”

Posted November 8, 2011 at 8:49 am · Comments { 10 } ·

I’m a big fan of the interviews done on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio and thanks to the hard work of Dave McAllister we can all peruse transcripts of the shows. The latest interview to be transcribed with B3Bouldering.com‘s Jamie Emerson touches on a wide variety of topics including Jamie’s work on a guidebook for RMNP and Mt. Evans, the evolution of his blog and his status as the unofficial Sheriff of the climbing community:

You know, if I question, “Did someone start there or do this,” they take it really personally. Even though I think it’s important that we discuss these issues and I know a lot of times it’s my friends.
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In fact, I called Dave Graham out for starting in an inappropriate place and he was not happy with me, at all. We had to have a little talk about it. He was like, “It’s really ridiculous that you’re calling me out.” I’m like, “Hey, I’m an equal opportunity Sheriff. I’ll write tickets for everyone.” No one’s above being questioned, including myself.
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Ironically, I feel like I get questioned more than anyone.

Check out the full interview here.

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Jamie Emerson

· Areas { 0 }

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Tommy Caldwell Explains His New Approach To Sharing Dawn Wall Updates

Posted November 4, 2011 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Tommy Caldwell has freed the first 11 pitches of his Dawn Wall project and is now working on pitch 12. Of course, you already knew this if you’ve been following the updates and pictures on his Facebook page. For someone who has normally been rather reserved when it comes to the online climbing world, this new level of sharing by Caldwell has caught many by surprise. In this post on The Cleanest Line he explains to friend Kelly Cordes some of the thoughts behind this change:

Although it felt a bit unnatural at first, I decided to embrace the circus on this project. There are many reasons for this.
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First of all, it becomes a circus whether I like it or not. The Ask a Climber Program here in Yosemite has put the climbers on El Cap on display.
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There are daily blog updates complete with photos of what is going on. If you can’t fight ‘em, might as well join ‘em.
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