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→ Did Psicocomp Just Make Speed Climbing Cool?∞

Posted August 14, 2014 at 10:30 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Justin Roth, writing on The Stone Mind about last week’s Psicocomp:

The 2014 Psicocomp ended up even more exciting than the 2013 version. Clearly the event organizers paid attention to issues they encountered on their maiden voyage and tried to remedy them (hot tubs to keep soaked competitors from going hypothermic between heats, for example).
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Like bakers tweaking a recipe, they adjusted the ingredients and the ratios to create a better overall result.
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Speed climbing up a steep wall in a head-to-head sudden-death format with little downtime, plus big falls into water, all in a scenic outdoor setting (coincidence that it’s at an Olympic training facility?
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), attended by some of the continent’s strongest climbers—it turned out to be a heady mix that left the attending throngs stoked.

Between this and what happened at April’s SCS Nationals it’s been a pretty big year for speed climbing.

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→ Why Psicocomp Is The Best Competitive Climbing Event In North America∞

Posted August 14, 2014 at 9:55 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Johnson is a big fan of the recently completed Psicocomp1.  I was not aware of reason #11 until I read her post, but that is a pretty nice bonus.
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  1. As are a lot of the other athletes from what I’ve heard and read ↩
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→ Delaney Miller On Psicocomp∞

Posted August 14, 2014 at 8:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Delaney Miller, writing on Petzl’s blog after finishing 2nd in the Psicocomp for the 2nd consecutive year:

Rock climbing is my absolute passion and I consider myself incredibly lucky to have discovered it at such a young age. I am excited to return for Psicocomp next year and I hope to see more competitions like it emerge, as they’re tons of fun and great for the sport.
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I hope events like these will help the sport gain recognition and momentum worldwide, so others can likewise realize how amazing climbing can be.

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→ 5.14a Onsight By Kai Lightner∞

Posted August 14, 2014 at 7:37 am · Comments { 0 } ·

After getting knocked out of Friday night’s Psicocomp in the first round by Jimmy Webb, Kai Lightner made his way to nearby Maple Canyon on Saturday where he had a big day according to this post on his Instagram feed onsighting Pipe Dream (5.14a) and redpointing Divine Fury (5.14b).

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→ Project 360: The Eiger’s North Face∞

Posted August 12, 2014 at 8:04 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Mammut is back again with another cool multimedia project, this time it’s a 360 degree interactive photo/video tour of the legendary Eiger North Face.  Cool stuff.

Climbing.com has some background on the project if you’re interested in that sort of thing.

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→ Heather Weidner Repeats Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b)∞

Posted July 31, 2014 at 10:50 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Heather Weidner, writing on her blog after completing her first 5.14b with a repeat of Andy Raether’s Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle, CO:

The crux of Stockboys is about 2/3 up the route in what I call “The Bermuda Triangle.” At the route’s steepest section the rock converges into a triangular shape with many sloping surfaces and laughably small crimps. For me, the crux was a haunting 13-move boulder problem that I rarely escaped without falling.
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There’s the launch to the wide pinch, the back-twisting, shallow and insecure right knee bar, readjusting until your meniscus and hips scream.
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The sharp left crimp in the roof, the twisting and leaning out to a right-hand wide pinch…

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→ Audrey Sniezek Repeats Lost World (5.14b)∞

Posted July 31, 2014 at 8:56 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Audrew Sniezek, writing on her blog about how she juggles a full-time job and sending 5.14b with her recent repeat of Lost World  at Little Si, WA:

The early morning routine, if you don’t already know this about me, is sport climbing ‘alpine style’ starting at the crack of dawn. We call ourselves the Breakfast Club or the Morning Crew and though the group has dwindled down over the years to only a few remaining, it was exciting to see a resurgence in numbers. The morning group has been gathering and climbing at this wall and Exit 38 since as early as 2005. We come from all around the city, meet and carpool to the cliff sometimes in the dark so we can get the most time on the wall before having to rush back to the city for work.
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While there has been an ebb and flow of the morning group, there has generally been a core set, primarily Microsoftees, that have endured and includes myself. These early morning sessions allow us to get in some good climbs with cooler temps and no crowds.
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We get in a full day at work and for those with families, get to enjoy dinner at home with their spouse and kids. In the summer, the sun hits the wall as early as 8:30 and if it’s a hot day, can become impossible to climb on the wall by 9:30, which is perfect for us. We can easily be off the wall and in the office by 10:30/11am.

I’ll always be that much more impressed with someone’s hard climbing if they are doing it while juggling “real world” responsibilities at the same time.
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