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→ Taming The Cobra∞

Posted September 23, 2013 at 8:25 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Nice piece by Brits Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker about their successful ascents of Sonnie Trotter’s Cobra Crack (5.14-) in Squamish, BC:

So where does this leave us, three weeks into a three-and-half week long trip? Was our training any good? Did The Cobra live up to expectations and did the Squamish Weather Gods smile down on us?
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1. I think so.
2. Oh yes.
3. We are forever in your debt.

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→ Sender Films’ Reel Rock 8: Peaks Behind The Screens∞

Posted September 18, 2013 at 9:08 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Great in depth piece in Boulder Weekly about Sender Films, Big Up Productions and the Reel Rock Film Tour which kicks off its 8th edition on September 19th.  Tons of great nuggets about both companies, how the tour got started and how it has evolved.  I especially liked this anecdote about working with Alex Honnold:

Mortimer, a day after meeting with television networks in Los Angeles, says, “In L.A., people are like, what’s your contract with Alex [Honnold]? … And I’m like, ‘Dude, he’s my buddy, he’s sleeping on my couch right now.’ And they’re like, ‘Geez, he’s gonna fuck you, you gotta get a contract.
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’ … And we’re like, ‘No, we kinda come from this world and we’ve shared a rope together and we trust each other,’ and so I think we’re so uniquely positioned with these relationships with these athletes — and then our ability to tell these stories and work with the best filmers — to do this.”

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→ Save Oak Flat∞

Posted September 18, 2013 at 9:36 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Shit:

There is a vote scheduled for this Thursday, September 19th in the US House of Representatives on legislation that would trade away the popular Oak Flat climbing area in Arizona to Resolution Copper Mining, a foreign owned mining company. All 435 members of the House of Representatives will have the opportunity to cast a vote on this legislation, yet many of them know little or nothing about the bill–except what the bill sponsors have told them.

If this bill (HR 687) should become law, it will result in the largest loss of a climbing resource in the history of the United States.

The vote is tomorrow, so if you want to attempt to make your voice heard today is the day.

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→ Climber Shot In Ten Sleep∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 2:37 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

While the good news I shared this morning from Ten Sleep is still great news, this is not great news out of Ten Sleep:

Around 2:00 a.m. on Monday, September 16, a climber from Ecuador was shot outside his tent in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, the popular sport climbing destination.

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→ El Cap Report Returns For Fall 2013 Season∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 12:59 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

It’s baaaaack:

So take a break Cupcakes, Cubicle Pukes, Internet Climbers, and get ready for today’s report … ditch the kids, the spouse, the pets… because this is your time to head up on ElCap with old Captain Tom!

It should be an interesting season with Tommy Caldwell’s Dawn Wall project set to continue this season provided that the devastating floods near Caldwell’s home in Estes Park haven’t derailed his plans.

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→ Bellavista∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 9:50 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Bellavista, Alex Huber’s route with difficulties up to 5.14b on the north face of Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites, got a lot of press earlier this summer when Sasha DiGiulian did the FFA of the route with partner Edu Marin.  At the time I didn’t feel as though I had a real sense for what this route must be like though.  I mean, what does a climbing on a big wall of limestone like this really look like?
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 Fortunately, Alan Cassidy and Dave MacLeod are in Italy right now trying the route, and Cassidy posted this report after day 1:

So that was it we were there, under that big roof. I am truly struggling to convey the feeling of being perched on the belay seat under that enormous roof as I watched Dave disappear round the corner out of sight to equip the crux pitches (8c, 8a).
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It was eerily calm and the warmest I had been all day. I heard little from Dave but was well aware of the constant trickle of falling stones coming from the gully at the side of the cliff an the chatter of tourists ambling their way round the Tre Cime. Looking at the void under the roof I felt a strong unease, not fear, just that sense of there being more comfortable things to be doing with your spare time. All of a sudden a yelp, followed by a falling rock, followed by a falling Dave appeared. The first time either of us had succumbed to the almost inevitable hold failure.

MacLeod has also updated his blog with a post on their efforts with some pictures that give you a good sense of the challenge they’re up against.

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→ Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber’s Coalition∞

Posted September 17, 2013 at 8:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber’s coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon.  Once an area you just heard rumors about1, Ten Sleep has become one of the most popular summer climbing destinations in the U.S. and non-climbing land managers have started to take notice.  Forming a group to represent climber’s interest in the region is a great step.

This is also a good time to give props to DPM editor Mikey Williams who, unlike yours truly, is actually a pretty good climber in his own right.
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 Most recently he climbed Masters of the Universe, a 5.14c in Ten Sleep.  Nice work!

  1.  I recall hearing about it back in 2001 while visiting the Wild Iris ↩
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