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→ Chris Sharma Conquers La Dura Dura∞

Posted August 29, 2013 at 10:40 am · Comments { 26 } ·

Interesting piece by Andrew Bisharat for Prana looking at Chris Sharma’s journey to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c):

Some five years ago, La Dura Dura didn’t exist other than as a simple, vague desire within Sharma to progress as a climber. In 2008, at 27 years old, Sharma had just sent Jumbo Love, thereby establishing the first rock climb rated 5.15b. This was actually the second time Sharma had advanced the world standard; in 2001, he climbed Realization, the first 5.15a. By many measures, Sharma had proven himself to be the best climber of his generation. It was something he had been told all his adult life, too—flattering hype that always made him uncomfortable, if not wary.
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But it wasn’t until he completed Jumbo Love that he realized one of the reasons why.
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Sharma looked within and realized he’d been climbing for 15 years and, thus far, he hadn’t really had to try very hard to be the best.

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→ Being Alex Megos∞

Posted August 29, 2013 at 9:48 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Nice interview with Alex Megos by Nick Fletcher:

Watching Alex climb is like watching an elite athlete running or swimming (for example). There’s no discernible effort – yet you know how hard he’s trying and in some cases you know first hand how hard the moves are from your own attempts, Alex just pieces the moves together with a calmness and fluidity that only comes from years of climbing and training at the highest level.
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It’s also worth noting that in addition to doing the FA of Australia’s hardest sport route, Megos established a new link-up in the Hollow Mountain Cave called Wheelchair that he feels is harder than the well-known Wheel Of Life.  Vertical Life has all the details on that, although at this point I feel like I could use some sort of interactive map to figure out all the possible variations in this massive cave!

∞ · Comments { 4 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }
Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win 2013 Bouldering World Cup

Stöhr, Sharafutdinov Win 2013 Bouldering World Cup

Posted August 28, 2013 at 1:47 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Anna Stöhr and Dmitrii Sharafutdinov win the 2013 Bouldering World Cup

Read full story · Comments { 2 } · Climbers { 20 } · Areas { 0 }
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→ Annual Hound Ears Comp Cancelled∞

Posted August 28, 2013 at 8:49 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Bad news for fans of the annual bouldering comp that has taken place for 19 years at Hound Ears in North Carolina:

For 19 years, the Hound Ears Club has graciously allowed one of the largest and most successful climbing competitions to take place on their property. Each year the event is allowed based on Hound Ears Club Board approval.
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Despite the excellent relationship that has been developed over nearly two decades, it appears that the board has decided to not allow the competition to take place in 2013. We are actively seeking for the board to reconsider their decision with the support of both the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club.
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Update – Even worse news:

∞ · Comments { 6 } · Climbers { 0 }
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→ 12-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Repeats The Automator (V13)∞

Posted August 26, 2013 at 9:59 pm · Comments { 13 } ·

As usual these days, if it doesn’t happen on Instagram it didn’t happen.
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The it in this case is 12-year-old Ashima Shiraishi making a quick 2 day repeat of The Automator (V13) in RMNP, CO. She is the 2nd female to climb this problem after Angie Payne in 2010, and she is the youngest person of either gender to climb this quintessential Park testpiece.

Jade next??

∞ · Comments { 13 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }

→ Manslaughter Charges Filed In Tito Traversa Accident∞

Posted August 26, 2013 at 9:50 am · Comments { 8 } ·

DPM does some rough translation work on this article, published in an Italian newspaper, which indicates that five people have apparently been served with manslaughter charges in the July death of 12-year-old Tito Traversa.  Given the language barrier, the dearth of real detail about what happened in the accident, other than the well-publicized faulty draw setup, and the fact that this is taking place in the European legal system, it’s hard to make any definitive statement about what this all means other than the obvious which is that none of this will help bring Traversa back to life.  Other than that it will be interesting to see how this story plays out.
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∞ · Comments { 8 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 0 }
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→ Footage Of Adam Ondra’s FA Of Move∞

Posted August 26, 2013 at 9:33 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Do not adjust your computer.  This is just how fast Adam Ondra climbs these days.

On a related note:  could anyone else make something like the bottom part of Move look so easy yet have so much credibility when calling it hard 5.
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14?

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 } · Areas { 1 }