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Bellavista

Bellavista, Alex Huber’s route with difficulties up to 5.14b on the north face of Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites, got a lot of press earlier this summer when Sasha DiGiulian did the FFA of the route with partner Edu Marin.  At the time I didn’t feel as though I had a real sense for what this route must be like though.  I mean, what does a climbing on a big wall of limestone like this really look like?
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 Fortunately, Alan Cassidy and Dave MacLeod are in Italy right now trying the route, and Cassidy posted this report after day 1:

So that was it we were there, under that big roof. I am truly struggling to convey the feeling of being perched on the belay seat under that enormous roof as I watched Dave disappear round the corner out of sight to equip the crux pitches (8c, 8a).
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It was eerily calm and the warmest I had been all day. I heard little from Dave but was well aware of the constant trickle of falling stones coming from the gully at the side of the cliff an the chatter of tourists ambling their way round the Tre Cime. Looking at the void under the roof I felt a strong unease, not fear, just that sense of there being more comfortable things to be doing with your spare time. All of a sudden a yelp, followed by a falling rock, followed by a falling Dave appeared. The first time either of us had succumbed to the almost inevitable hold failure.

MacLeod has also updated his blog with a post on their efforts with some pictures that give you a good sense of the challenge they’re up against.

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Behind The Founding Of The Bighorn Climber’s Coalition

Nice piece on DPM about an important step being taken to form a climber’s coalition for the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming which are home to the increasingly popular Ten Sleep Canyon.  Once an area you just heard rumors about1, Ten Sleep has become one of the most popular summer climbing destinations in the U.S. and non-climbing land managers have started to take notice.  Forming a group to represent climber’s interest in the region is a great step.

This is also a good time to give props to DPM editor Mikey Williams who, unlike yours truly, is actually a pretty good climber in his own right.
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 Most recently he climbed Masters of the Universe, a 5.14c in Ten Sleep.  Nice work!

  1.  I recall hearing about it back in 2001 while visiting the Wild Iris
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Boulder Flood

What else is there to say about the flooding that has taken place all along Colorado’s Front Range the past few days that hasn’t already been said?

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adidas Rockstars 2013 Live

adidas Rockstars 2013 Live

Tune in here Saturday, September 14th at 1:15 PM EDT to catch Finals of the 2013 adidas Rockstars live from the Porsche Arena in Stuttgart, Germany

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Video Friday – 9/13/2013

Video Friday – 9/13/2013

Some thoughts on the live interview project I worked on last week as well as the highest rated videos of the past week

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Why Do Women Cry At The Crag?

Paige Claassen:

Over the last few months, I’ve found myself sitting at the base of a project, crying, more and more often. Crying over a rock climb is the worst.
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The actual crying, reflecting on the crying after I cry, and the dread of knowing that if I fall I will probably cry – these are all humiliating to admit.
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Crying about a rock climb is even more disgraceful when all day, as I fall and cry and fall and cry, I watch people in the land below who are simply trying to survive. How can I put so much effort and value into something that in reality means so little?
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The way each of us expresses our emotions may be different, but there’s no doubt that climbing has the ability to generate strong emotional responses in each of us.  As for me, I don’t recall ever crying while climbing, but in my younger days I know I reacted to failure in ways that make me want to cry just thinking about it today.

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Man And Superman

Malcolm Gladwell, writing for The New Yorker:

What we are watching when we watch élite sports, then, is a contest among wildly disparate groups of people, who approach the starting line with an uneven set of genetic endowments and natural advantages. There will be Donald Thomases who barely have to train, and there will be Eero Mäntyrantas, who carry around in their blood, by dumb genetic luck, the ability to finish forty seconds ahead of their competitors. Élite sports supply, as Epstein puts it, a “splendid stage for the fantastic menagerie that is human biological diversity.” The menagerie is what makes sports fascinating.
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But it has also burdened high-level competition with a contradiction.
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We want sports to be fair and we take elaborate measures to make sure that no one competitor has an advantage over any other. But how can a fantastic menagerie ever be a contest among equals?
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Fortunately, climbing isn’t popular or lucrative enough for performance enhancing drugs to be a big part of the conversation, but it is a sport where people’s physical differencesand the inherent advantages and disadvantages thereinare always on display to give you an excuse something to think about while your tall friend hikes your project.

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